NB32 - Namibia: 1,600Y/Old Welwitschia Plants, A Rose Quartz Mine, Terrace Bay, Desert Elephants in Camp
Wednesday, 31 August 2016 2:56 am
This area of Namib Desert (around Swakomund) receives less than 5mm of rain annually and for many years sometimes no rain at all, yet looking closely at the ground it is covered with lichens.
How do they grow without water?
Winds from the Atlantic Ocean bring humidity and a morning fog, this fog is pushed inland and the animals and plants of the area have adapted to get their moisture from its precipation.
Just a couple of drops of water on dry blackish lichen will make it unfold and change colour.
In this dry area east of Swakopmund the troops of the South African Army camped here in 1915.
It was WWI and this was enemy territory of German South West Africa.
Old rusted cans & broken bottles.
But the real reason we are out here is to see these rare Welwitschia plants. They are unique to Namibia and actually are a dwarf conifer, related to the pine tree.
They have only two leaves which continue to grow throughout its life span. As time passes these are torn into thinner shreds.
The small flowers are pollinated by beetles and a cone is formed dropping to the ground to continue the generational process.
Growing like this is a very slow process, this plant is estimated to be 1,600 years old.
Tonights camp is at an deserted Rose Quartz Mine.
N122: Rose Quartz Camp
Cost: Nil
Altitude: 128 metres
S 21*47.421 E 14*10.771
Today: 303 Km
Africa Total: 23,693 Km
Wednesday 31st August 2016:
Walking around the area this morning, I found an area about the size of the truck that sounded very hollow. Tapped the granite and definitely an empty space below, with regret I do not have anything to explore further but I do know it is not part of the old mine as that was only open cut. A void below full of crystals ?
2kms on is an abandoned Mica mine.
A Black Backed Jackal.
We cannot camp here so pre arranged accommodation. DB&B N$1400 ( A$140).
We did this so we could drive the western coast as far north as Mowe Bay.
...however
When we entered the restricted area it cost yet another N170 (A$17) for the entry permit (transit is free) and were then told one cannot go to Mowe Bay without permission from the environmental department in Windhoek !
On arrival our ‘hotel room’ was an old mining bungalow. Beds hard, everything rusty, but the shower had hot water.
...I think we will sleep in the truck !
Cost: N$1400 (A$140) Dinner Bed Breakfast
Altitude: 11 metres
S 19*59.815 E 13*02.119
Today: 284 Km
Africa Total: 23,977 Km
Terrace Bay is an old Diamond Mining town where off shore they sucked the sand from the sea bed to extract the Diamonds. The quality was low and small size. The venture did not last.
The ‘town’ then relied on fishing as an income and now a small tourist business.
The surrounding area is stark.
The only green we saw in the 100Km drive north from Torra Bay to Terrace Bay was in the Uniab River.
500metres from the road a small waterfall of ground water trickled down and into this erosion gully.
The Orix or Gemsbok with its large one metre pointed horns can survive here as it needs little water.
This desert antelope can live for months on the little water it derives from the plants it eats.
Interesting is that it can also survive high temperatures that would kill other animals.
Now travelling towards Etosha we camp up the Huad River. We have camped here before and its a quite dry river bed lined with Camel Thorn Acacias. Just have to watch out for the Desert Elephants !
N124/5: Huad River Bed Camp
Cost: Nil
Altitude: 425 metres
S 20*20.104 E 14*11.985
Today: 191 Km
Africa Total: 24,168 Km
Actually stayed 2 nights, and climbed the nearby hill to explore some caves.
On the evening of the second night noises of breaking branches...Elephants.
Under spot light we find the big culprit feeding in the Acacias near by.
6am this morning more Elephants march into camp.
They keep arriving until we have 9 in total.
Shaking the Acacia Camel Thorn Trees for the seed pods or reaching up to pull branched down.
We are parked up under such a tree and move into an open area so as not to interrupt their feeding
These are Desert Elephants; as wild as they get, no game park or National Park here !
These Elephants are slightly shorter than the normal African Elephants, and have adapted with bigger feet to cross the sand dunes.
Now on the way to Etosha
N126: Weavers Rock Camp Site
Cost: N120/person
Altitude: 1647 metres
S 20*41.929 E 16*50.506
Today: 343 Km
Africa Total: 24,512 Km