SA17 The Wild Coast-Dwesa, Cwebe, A goat track to The Hole in the Wall

Monday, 2 May 2016 12:30 am



The back roads towards the Wild Coast leads us past isolated settlements made up of the round houses or rondarvels.

Here a living is made from the land.

Maize, Cattle, Goats and Sheep with the odd vegetable crops







Wild Coast or ‘Transkei’ in inhabited by the Xhosa people and we found them very friendly, more often waving to us before we wave to them.



Our Destination and camp is a little known gem. Dwesa Nature Reserve on the banks of the Nqabara River.

The camp site just beautiful, as was this albino monkey which we just caught a glimpse.


A063: Dwesa Camp

Cost: R 212/site

Altitude: 2 metres

S 32* 18.249    E 28*  49.740

Today: 107 + 19 Km

Trip Total: 11,020 Km


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Monday 2nd May 2016:


This morning the Vervet Monkeys invaded camp. Leave a door open for a second or two and they are inside the camper, tool box... everything.


and  YES they do like Vegemite.






The surrounding country is what I would  describe as ‘African Jungle’ !


Thick, dark and beautiful.








Close to the coast you break out  of the vegetation into grassland, and the beaches are great and provide good exploring.





This track leads to Cape Dwesa where a walk up the beach to the  rocky Mendu Point where in 1916 the O’Bell ship sunk.






On the same point is this set of massive whale bones


We loved this place and stayed another night.


Tuesday 3rd May 2016:


In an effort to follow the Wild Coast  more, we had to drive inland 30kms to cross the Mbhashe River returning to just the other side of its mouth at the Cwebe Nature Reserve.


Within the park, and right on the beach is a private run resort - ‘The Haven’.

They do not offer camping, but asking nicely we were treated to camping, hot showers and the run of the resort.


A064: Cwebe/The Haven Camp

Cost: R 100/vehicle

Altitude: 51 metres

S 32* 14.423    E 28*  54.609

Today: 81 Km

Trip Total: 11,101 Km


Also a smorgasbord dinner R90 (A$9 ) / person

Very nice dinner and place, we stayed 2 nights


Walked to the old lighthouse built around 1880, then a great beach walk on to mouth of the next big river -The Mbanyana River.



Thursday 5th May 2016:

Mbanyana Falls.









More signs of disrepair and infrastructure decline. This is/was the park entrance on the northern side.








Now following lesser tracks that drive past the many local houses.


We get some strange looks but then lots of waves.







Our track is now no more than a goat/cattle track where the ‘road’ once existed.


We push on through the scrub, then cross a stony river.













It is then a long climb some 1000 metres of rocky track and cattle tracks to the top of the ridge affording us a great view over the ? River









Hole in the Wall



Our camp is in Coffee Bay, so named because a ship carrying coffee beans was wrecked here and some started to grow.


A065: Coffee Bay Camp

Cost: R 120/person ! = R240/night

Altitude: 13 metres

S 31* 59.264    E 29*  08.918

Today: 86 Km

Trip Total: 11,188 Km


The next morning the ladies were selling beads, etc, and this purse made from a discarded orange juice container.


Just north of Coffee Bay the mouth of yet another river.


Friday/Saturday/Sunday 6/7/8th May 2016
A raining few days at Port St Johns

No point going anywhere so vegged out.


The locals also kept us entertained !


A066: Port St Johns Camp

Cost: R 80/person

Altitude: 25 metres

S 31* 35.115    E 29*  31.580

Today: 147Km

Trip Total: 11,336 Km


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