Part 29: Peru - Colca Canyon, Condors, An Inca Fishing Port, An 1800 year Old Cemetery.
Wednesday, 13 August 2014 8:35 am
Wednesday 13th August.
Eventually we are free and on our way to Colca Canyon.
The road transversed high plains with little vegetation or animal life.
The highest pass is 4935metres from here you can clearly see Peru’s most active volcanio.
Volcan Sabancaya is 5976metres and has recorded eruptions in 1675, 1758, 1986 and the most explosive in May 1990 which continued for 8 years.
The height may now exceed 6000metres since there have been smaller eruptions in 2000 and 2003.
Just as we were leaving the pass we spotted a grazing herd of Alpaca and Llama.
Then a snow blizzard hit.
The poor rancher called up his herd and started moving them across the road.
It was cold and windy at 4800metres.
Warm in the vehicle cab we were just happy to sit and take too numerous pictures.
The small town of Chivay is upstream from the Colca Canyon.
Practiced in the upper part of the valley, the Incas bound the scull of the children so that their head was pointed and GOD like.
This practice was outlawed by the invading spanish however reminiscent of this practice, the upper valley locals wear high hats.
Camp 401: In the grounds of Colca Lodge. A very up market resort.
Cost: Sol 90/person (US$32) allowed us a day pass to the resort, including the hot thermal pools, and a great 3 course dinner.
Thanks Burhhard for the recommendation, we think it was great.
Altitude: 3368m
S15*38.975 W071* 40.148
Today: 175 kms
Trip Total: 120,772 Km
Thursday 14th August.
The day has to start with another hot tub.
For thousands of years Andean people have kept Llamas and Alpaca for food, fibre and companionship.
Llamas are worth about A$150 each and most ranchers have about 80 animals. Now with the high demand for Llama meat and wool many are turning away from sheep and cattle.
Llamas live on the high plains, are tall and hardy, and have course wool used for blankets whereas the Alpaca live on the lower better pasturers and have finer wool used for shawls, sweaters, and scarves.
The last variety is the Vicuña, which is unable to be domesticated. They are dusty orange in colour and rather shy. They were nearly hunted to extension for their fine wool and the belief that Vicuña blood can cure almost anything. The wool so fine it was reserved for exclusively for Inca royalty.
Heading along the canyon edge, above us Volcan Sabancaya is still sending up smoke signals.
At the end of the day the locals shepherd their donkeys, cattle, and sheep back home.
Still used today are the pre-Inca farming terraces that extend well up into the mountains.
Colca Canyon, at 4,160metres is the 2nd deepest canyon in the world, and more than twice as deep as the Grand Canyon.
Camp 402: Above Colca Canyon
Cost: Nil
Altitude: 3757m
S15* 38.424 W071* 53.638
Today: 38 kms
Trip Total: 120,810 Km
Friday 15th August.
We were up early, as were the Condors to catch the rising thermals.
Just in front of us this one had a favourite rock to perch on.
That was our queue to leave !
The 200km rough road took us along the top of Colca Canyon and over 4 passes each above 4,000metres, then down to the coast.
The first 150kms was a great drive, surrounded by majestic snow caped Andes Mountains
The last 50kms was horrendous corrugations through rough desert at a slow 25Kph.
The coast is shrouded in sea mist, the road full of trucks, but a pleasure on the black top none the less.
Camp 403: Amongst Desert Sand Dunes
Cost: Nil
Altitude: 141m
S16* 29.581 W072* 55.925
Today: 386 kms
Trip Total: 121,196 Km
Saturday 16th August.
The exception are the river valleys that bring melt water from high in the snow covered Andes.
Intense irrigation turns the valley green. Corn, Beans, Tomatoes, Potatoes, Onions, and Olive Trees.
Just outside of the fishing village of Chala, is the archaeological site of Puerto Inca.
It is from this Inca fishing port that fish and seafood was sent by runners all the way to Cusco ! That’s about 600kms !
Around the site are these burial pits full of human bones.
There is not much to do in these small coastal fishing villages.
Even finding a car to chase is a long wait !
30kms south of Nasca is the Chauchilla Cemetery.
Discovered in the 1920’s it includes mummified human remains that date back to 200AD - that’s 1800 years old.
Over the years the cemetery has been extensively plundered by huaqueros (Grave Diggers) who left human bones and pottery scattered throughout the site.
The remaining bodies are remarkably preserved because of both the dry climate and the funeral rites that took place.
Each body was carefully clothed in embroidered cotton cloth and then painted with a resin.
They were then placed in purpose built mud brick tombs.
It is thought the resin kept out insects and slowed the bacterial decomposition.
Camp 404: Nasca - Hotel Maison Suisse Camping
Cost: Sol 28/person (US$10)
Altitude: 1553m
S14* 51.050 W074* 57.507
Today: 394 kms
Trip Total: 121,590 Km
Sunday 17th August.
Lyn is not feeling so well so we try to visit the hospital in Nasca, but it is being rebuilt and closed. We visit a local medical centre and his recommendation apart from some medicine is No fruit, No vegetables, No red meat and No condiments.
Lyn suggests that chocolate cake and ice cream should be OK !
Not satisfied we drive the 150kms to Ica, a much bigger major town where we have some success with a ‘real’ doctor. So hopefully she will be on the mend soon.
Ica is surrounded by massive sand dunes and just outside is the desert oasis of Huacachina.
A number of years ago I tore this out of a Qantas magazine with the wish to visit one day.
The water is brown, the sand littered with garbage and the lagoon has more gum trees than my Ozzie back yard.
The place is abuzz with dune buggies and trinket sellers.
I will try to photoshop the memory.
It was nice however to see families enjoying the space. Flying kites, sand boarding etc.
Camp 405: Car Park in Huacachina Oasis
Cost: Nil
Altitude: 416 m
S 14* 05.227 W 075* 45.698
Today: 158 kms
Trip Total: 121,748 Km
Monday 18th August.
This morning we revisited the medical centre, and have decided it is best for Lyn to have the medication required intravenously rather than by tablets. This requires a couple of days stay here in Ica.
Already Lyn is on the mend, so in a couple of days when all is good, we will refuel, resupply....and start our southern journey to Santiago to attend to the vehicle shipping.