Part 2: Colombia - Cartagena, Mud Volcanoes, Baru Peninsula

Tuesday, 30 July 2013 9:55 pm

Wednesday 31st July:

Cartagena- The most wonderful city.

Friendly, safe, modern and yet the charm of an old Spanish port has not been lost.


Yesterday we entered the harbour between the two old spanish forts that guarded the entrance against the raids by the English pirate Sir Francis Drake.

Between these two forts the Spanish ran a steel chain to close the harbour. Now modern cruise and container ships enter into the deep and protected harbour.



Our Captain Gisbet gave our passports to Manfred for customs clearance and by chance this is the same guy who will be attending to our vehicle clearance. Already we have been told it is a slow process and it will be a couple of days.



Caught a taxi to the old town and found Hostel Real will do us fine amongst the many on offer.


For most of the day and into the evening we wandered the old town.







Old Spanish style buildings, some brightly coloured and some covered with vibrant Bougainvillaea.










Visited the gold museum and found something you can give to those who have everything.

Gold Fish Hooks !











Today we start the process to get our vehicles.

We met Manfred and not sure if we have taken the correct path.

CA Manfred H.H. ALWARDT, Ing.

E-mail: [email protected]

He is a bit slow and only gives us half the information.

Lots of disorganised paperwork and more copies.

Already the 9am appointment was cancelled until 2pm.



So had a chance to see the museum of the Court of the Holy Office.


The Inquisition was to judge crimes committed against the beliefs of the Holy Church, however in all the trials not a single person was found innocent.




The accused were weighed and the innocent should weigh a kilo for every centimetre of their height over one metre. For every weight over this measurement was considered evidence of witchcraft.


There are some very nasty tools of torture in this place.





Thursday 1st August:

We have an 8am appointment with Manfred in his ‘office’. A coffee table in the local supermarket !

Well I thought the germans were prompt. he shows up at 8.45, yet we have a pre booked customs inspection at 9am. Well we did not get there until after 10.30 as he is also doing an export for a german couple north to Panama.  The day drags. So far we have been overcharged for a customs inspection that customs do not charge for, unloading the container when we said we would do this and we know it is impossible to get the vehicles out without us.

More waiting and at 2pm we were directed to our container to find that the shipping company or customs has cut our padlock and the customs seal but the container was still intact.

In dripping sweat we unloaded the 2 vehicles replaced the spare tyres and mirrors.

Manfred is in the meantime arguing the overcharges, not negotiating arguing, he finally tells us that we can apply on the internet for a refund for the overcharges !!

To cut short, we drive our vehicles out of the port at 6.30pm and meet Manfred to settle his fee of US150  x 2. We said to him that “We, in spanish, could not get a refund from whoever and suggest as our broker he could get the refund.”

We offered to settle one payment for $150 and the other would balance the refund, but we would keep in touch. Then something very strange happened.

Manfred stood up and said. “Well do not pay me anything ! Good-by” then walked away. !!!

John and I were just stunned ...and still are.

It is dark and in the midst of peak hour traffic decided to not drive out of the city.

We have pre known of a park where we can camp overlooking the city.


Camp 289: Cartagena Overlook

Cost: Nil

N10* 24.576     W075*  32.313

Today :  10 Kms.  

Trip Total: 96,875  Kms


Friday 2nd August:

Restocked we drove out of Cartagena through some really crazy traffic. Between the Chicken Busses and crazy motorbikes we survived.


With in less than an hour we were on a bumpy dirt/muddy road on our way to a mud volcano. With a few hours to spare I greased the vehicle,got the air horns working, pumped up the tyres, and generally got things back into some sort of order.





Climbed the steep mound of dried outer mud to find a deep come with ladders leading down into the grey mud.














Now it’s bath time..





It’s like bathing in warm melted chocolate.



































One of the strangest and fun experiences.



It was then a stony walk to the lake where the locals wash you off



Camp 290: Mud Volcano

Cost: Nil

N10* 44.660     W075*  14.448

Today :  93 Kms.  

Trip Total: 96,988  Kms





http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=10.74425,-75.24084&ll=10.74425,-75.24084&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1


Saturday 3rd August:

South of Cartagena is the Baru Peninsula, I see a dotted line on the map going down the peninsula so it is the plan to go there.


Crossed a river by punt followed the bitumen road to dirt, eventually a track, then before long we were driving down the very narrow beach.











Whilst pruning a low branch on the road, we met Olinto Angaita and Laura who promptly offered to show us around the village of Baru.









That lead to a great lunch of fried fish, rice and plantains













A walk around the old fishing town and its 1930 buildings, finishing up at the ‘secret’ art gallery.










A couple of beers at the pub and watched the locals play very loud games of dominoes for money.



More surprises when Olinto then takes us on a boat trip around the mangrove tunnels and to a couple of the surrounding island beaches.



Olinto is about to start a new business to bring tourists to this fascinating area, and I think we were some test subjects.  I think he will do very well and can be contacted on Facebook at /taroa.adventurers



Camp 291: Baru Peninsula on our own private beach

Cost: P20,000 about US$10/vehicle

N10* 09.564     W075* 39.802 

Today :   119 Kms.  

Trip Total: 97,107  Kms