Part 17: Argentina - Old Jesuit Missions, Maté, and Old War Heroes.
Sunday, 27 October 2013 8:49 am
Friday 25th October:
Last night’s BBQ was late and thus a slow start to today. Checked out the corner of Brazil, Paraguay, Argentina where the Rio Iguazu joins the Rio Parana then south on the main Rn12 road then the 17 and 14. We are heading to the Morano Falls.
Camp 359: Campground - very nice. Beside river on the RP21
Cost: Ar$20/person + 10/vehicle (Total US$10)
S26* 45.955 W054* 10.872
Today: 235Kms
Trip Total: 111,581Km
Saturday 26th October:
Now travelling a bush track that is marked as highway RP21 on the maps.
A great drive through thick rainforest. Not much animal life but the flowering trees and thick vines were impressive.
However we did see these Jaguar (?) foot prints fresh in the mud.
...and thousands of multi-coloured butterflies.
This lot licking the salt from the scull of a dead animal. Look closely for the canine teeth.
After 60kms we are back on bitumen and more yellow butterflies feeding on salt in the wet remains of a dead animal.
Fortunately the drive was interesting because the river was in flood and so much so, that the waterfall was under water. Not even a glimpse of it as the final part of the road was also underwater.
This part of Central Sth America was the home to extensive Jesuit Missions. Established around the early 1600’s they worked in harmony with the indigenous Guarani tribes until they were expelled by the Spanish in 1818.
There were about 30 organised missions which registered 141,182 inhabitants in 1732. The mission at San Ignacio Mini remains the most impressive. Unlike most missions throughout the world, the Jesuits here actually learnt the Guarani language and in conjunction with the indigenous worked the farms and shared a joint cultural life.
Camp 360: Outside San Ignacio, beside a dam
Cost: Nil
S27* 16.964 W055* 30.203
Today: 311Kms
Trip Total: 111,892Km
Sunday 27th October:
Today Argentina is not being kind to us. Another old Jesuit Mission that is wrapped in jungle vines, similar to Angkor Wat, was closed because of local elections.
Plan ‘B’ is we go to the Mate Museum 100kms out of our way just outside Apostoles. On arrival that was closed also for the same reason.
(The Juan Szychowski Historical Museum . www.yerbamarda.com.ar
S27*59.888 W055*46.437 - apparently worth a visit )
The day ended on a high with the perfect camp site.
Camp 361: Our camp in Argentina, overlooking Brazil, with the Uruguay River in between.
Cost: Nil
S28* 06.944 W055* 36.749
Today: 183Kms
Trip Total: 112,075Km
Monday 28th October:
Las Marias has been producing maté since 1928 and is still a family company. They employ 2,500 people on the 76,000 acre plantation and in the factory complex.
For its employees the company provides its community with free education, a hospital with 2 doctors on call, a house after 10 years service ...even a funeral plot in the on site family cemetery!
This is the original plantation of 1928 and still in production. Maté takes 2 1/2 years from picking to finished product. This company is the only one that produces the seedlings through to the finished product.
They also produce green and black tea, manufacturing their own harvesting equipment, developed Maté tea bags, and provide free hot water dispensers across the country for Maté tea.www.lasmarias.com.ar S28*06.747 W056*03.074
Is Maté Herbal tea nice? Lets say it is an acquired taste!
Camp 362: By the Uruguay River just out of Santo Tome
Cost: Nil
S28* 33.669 W056* 01.213
Today: 140Kms
Trip Total: 112,215Km
Tuesday 29th October:
Who is he? We did not know until now.
Just the most famous army leader in Argentina's history.
He lead the first convincing battle win in January 1813 and went on to lead all Argentinean forces finally liberating not only Argentina but also Peru and Chile.
Argentina is still very touchy over the Falkland Islands issue as this symbolic arch indicates an incomplete Argentina with the Falklands (Maldives as they call it) missing.
In the background San Martín’s birth house is enwrapped within this museum building.
Camp 363: Beside a lake
Cost: Nil
S31* 07.072 W058* 00.733
Today: 419Kms
Trip Total: 112,634Km
Wednesday 30th October:
A stand of rare Yatay palms.
These palms used to be all over Argentine, Uruguay and southern brazil but extensive farming and grazing has limited their cover and this is the last significant stand.
At Colon we crossed over the Rio Uruguay and into Uruguay at Paysandú.
The easiest border crossing we have ever done, checked out of Argentina and into Uruguay, immigration and Customs for the vehicles all in less than 15 minutes. Friendliest border crossing also.