Guatemala Part 2 - Emerald Pools, Orchids, and Mountain Towns

Wednesday, 17 October 2012 11:47 am

Tuesday 16th October:


The self guided tour of the Lanquin Caves was incredibly slippery. The formations mostly black and the ground covered with bat guano.


Needless to say we were not impressed particularly after we have seen so many beautiful caves, and now we really needed a swim to feel clean again.










9kms up the ‘road’ is Semuc Champey, claimed as the most beautiful place in Guatemala....and a great swimming hole.












The rough track leads up and down the mountains and past dried corn fields that the locals are currently harvesting.



The farmers live in thatched huts or more substantial buildings using second hand galvanised iron and cement blocks. 

Some buildings are from slab timber cut with chain saws from the little remaining rainforest.








On the steep slopes are fields of Ginger, Cardamon, Coffee, and Cacao.
















Semuc Champey is a series of emerald and turquoise coloured stepped pools.


Formed from the deposition of limestone it forms a great series of beautiful swimming holes.













What makes the place more geological interesting is that just above the pools, the fast flowing Rio Cahabon River actually plunges deep into a hole and disappears below.



Downstream it gushes from below the formation.


Thus these tranquil pools are on a natural bridge above the turbulent waters rushing below.


Parking at the area is Q20/vehicle and entry Q50. (If we needed camping was also Q50)







Refreshed and clean, even any dead skin has been nibbled off by the small fish that live in the pools, we head back up the road and further south to the town of Coban.


Our aim is a National Park right in Coban but it closes at 4.30pm, we arrive at 5.30. The gate was closed but unlocked, after wandering around we cannot find anyone so venture in through huge dense groves of palms and down to the parking and admin area. Here we see an attendant, and no riot guns, thankfully. He is quite happy to see us and settle in for a cool night at our now 1500 metres.


Camp 246:  Coban- Right in town - Parque Nacional Victorias Camp

Cost: Q40/person (US/A$5.00)

N15* 28.520  W090* 22.973

Today :  88 Kms.  

Trip Total: 91,226 Km


Wednesday 17th October:

In Coban we found a supermarket at Plaza Magdalena, and restocked our fridge and bar.

Meat and vegetables well priced as is alcohol. 1.75Lts Rum Q84 (US/A$11) & cans of premixed Smirnoff Q10 (US/A$1.30)




It was then off to the Orchid Farm of Vivero Verapaz where the charming owner showed us his many thousands of orchids he grows.











From orchids that grow and flower on champagne corks, to others that are just beautiful like this Tarantula Orchid














I am not really a flower person but some of these are really nice.






























Now heading west to Huehuetenango on a very twisty road that only recently has reopened.


2 years ago a massive landslide took away most of the mountain and all roads west.




First we got geographically misplaced in Sta.Cruz Verapaz where our 7W road starts , however there were many who were all to willing to help.


Despite local road closures they were happy to walk with us, up small lanes to show the way around.







Finally on 7W we see why the road was closed for 2 years.

 The road is very rough with numerous pot holes and I am taking it very slow to preserve my welded main spring. It is still holding for which I am thankful.

Camp 247:  Mountain Side Camp

Cost: Nil 

N15* 22.398  W090* 33.782

Today :  51 Kms.  

Trip Total: 91,277 Km

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=15.37324,-90.56317&ll=15.37324,-90.56317&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Thursday 18th October:

The 7W road wound its way down to valleys at 1000 metres and up to mountains at 2,600 metres.


The surroundings shrouded in smoke from the slash and burn farming practices, all the wood cooking fires, and vehicle exhausts.












We are pleased when the black top starts however the road has had no maintenance, in many areas the road covered with rock falls and in some areas the actual road fallen away.










Wood is used for cooking, and all day we see the very young through to the very old carrying huge loads of wood.













Our destination is the small hill top town of San Francisco EL Alto.




Up an incredibly steep hill lined with shops then into a maze of tight streets.

Current height 2,600metres





As we are look for somewhere to park up for the night in anticipation of tomorrows Friday markets we are right next to a vacant lot and parked along one side a Swiss Registered MAN Camper truck.


So after some introductions we park up behind.








Susanne and Ernest have been on the road for a couple of years and are heading also to Panama and south.


Over a couple of beers it was great to swap stories of our respective travels and vehicle ideas.









It is my birthday so we all went out to dinner. In the very busy night markets found a table and eat with the locals as the locals. Black beans, rice and meat Q13/plate including the sweet coffee.

At the equivalent of US/A$ 1.68 per head  no expense is spared!








Camp 248:  San Francisco El Alto Camp & Birthday Dinner

Cost: Q80/vehicle 

N14* 56.501  W091* 26.476

Today :  213 Kms.  

Trip Total: 91,490 Km


http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=14.94176,-91.44122&ll=14.94176,-91.44122&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1


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