Part 30: No Roads to Cordova

Saturday, 1 October 2011 1:51 pm

Monday 26th September:

But there is the Alaskan Marine Highway and other than by air this is the only way to visit this remote fishing town.


Thus with an early start from camp we made the 9.30 opening of the one way rail tunnel to Whittier and our loading onto the “Chenega” to Cordova via Valdez.










Today the perfect weather for sailing.


Blue Sky, Blue Waters and snow topped Mountains.









We were met at the Cordova wharf by a large family of Sea Otters, loved to stay and chat but with only 4 hours sleep last night finding a camp was high on our agenda. It was already 7.30pm



Camp was a pull off just out of town, tomorrow we explore.


Camp 138: Okra Bay Camp

Cost: Nil

N60* 34.228  W145* 44.245

Today :  275 Kms. 

Trip Total :  58,682  Kms


Tuesday 27th September:

The area was first settled by Eyak Indians because of the enormous Salmon the Copper River, then by Russian fur traders.

Cordova really boomed when it was chosen for the sea port of the Kennecott Copper Mine, one of the richest in the world. In 1911 the 196 mile rail line from the mines was completed and the first train carried $250,000 of pure copper (At 1911 value $’s).

When world copper prices crashed in 1938 the mine and rail line closed and Cordova reverted to a sleepy town surviving on Salmon Canning.




Today the town is still reliant on both the Salmon and deep sea fishing.


The Fisherman's Memorial at the boat harbour pays homage to those who have given the ultimate in pursuit of fish.











Heading east of town is the Copper River H’way that follows the original rail line. It winds over the Copper River Delta an area of rich and varied habitat.

At almost every river crossing sport fisherman hall in those fighting salmon.




At mile 15, we walked to Sheridan Glacier

One can hear the cracking and grinding at the face.

Camp was off the road in a disused gravel pit.


Wednesday 28th September:

Our main objective was to get to the end of the road to see the “Million Dollar Bridge” and Childs Glacier, one of the most active calving glaciers on Earth.


The rail bridge actually cost $1.5M and was the key to the $30M rail link to Kennicott. The bridge is unusual because of the long spans, the remoteness and the fact it was built across the face of two active glaciers. This and the rail line were an engineering feat of its time.


The bridge is now the end of the road because a span dropped during the 1964 earthquake.


Photo from Cordova Museum



Our mission to see both the active Childs Glacier and the “Million Dollar Bridge” or “Bridge to No-Where” was not to be. 12 miles short, a more recently built bridge was currently being undermined by glacial flood meltwaters. Bugger! We head heard this in town and tried to find any sort of transport further but to no avail. To walk 24miles (35Kms) return was too much in one day although we gave it serious thought.



I think the Copper River Road can now be called “The Road to Nowhere”...shame


Camp 140:   Copper River Camp

Cost: Nil

N60* 27.607  W145* 18.529

Today :  128 Kms. 

Trip Total :  58,884  Kms






Thursday 29th September:

Today was a 10Km walk to and from the Saddlebag Glacier. Could not actually get to the glacial face and had to be content with a distant view.



The problem with walking here in the woods is the  bears...and they eat you !


So not to surprise them it is best to make a noise. Talk loud, clap rocks together, or in our case as well as the before mentioned, I played the mouth organ....not very well but we saw only bear scat (poo) and no bears so I deduct that my playing was that bad...or was it that good!




Over lunch we watched this Seal catch fish in the creek.


Back and just south of Cordova camp was on Hartney Bay


Camp 141:   Hartney Bay Camp

Cost: Nil

N60* 30.151  W145* 51.815

Today :  164 Kms. 

Trip Total :  58,948  Kms




Tomorrow the Marine H’way back to Valdez and an end of the road drive up to the remains of the Kennicott Mines.