Part 34: Polar Bears of Hudson Bay / Churchill
Friday, 21 October 2011 8:54 am
Monday 17th October:
Driving slowly we attend to mundane things like the laundry before catching the train to Churchill at 5.30pm.
It is blowing a snow storm as we board at Thompson for the 17 hour very slow trip to Churchill.
Our destination is 500kms to the east on the Hudson Bay. The slow 30kph is due to the undulations in the rail track over the permafrost country.
As the sun sets, over the semi frozen tundra lakes, we sort of sleep to the slow rock and roll of the train.
Camp 157: Thompson/Churchill Train
Tuesday 18th October:
Arrived into Churchill at 9.30am.
A relatively heavy snow in town and a cold wind.
Spent the day exploring the small community, gift shops and the very interesting Eskimo Museum.
Churchill is the export centre for the wheat production from the great plains of Manitoba and Saskatchewan. The grain arrives by long freight trains and is exported through the terminal to markets in Europe. That is, whilst Hudson Bay is not thick with sea ice.
Camp 158: Tundra Inn, Churchill
Wednesday 19th October:
Let’s go see some Polar Bears:
The day starts early, and the sky appears clear.
We are collected from the hotel and shuttle bussed to what is known as the ‘launch pad’ where we mount the “Tundra Buggy”
These 4 and 6 wheel drive vehicles are based on Volvo ex Airport Fire Trucks, and completely rebuilt with low gearing and wide tyres to float across the soft tundra.
The two Polar Bear tour operating companies also offer overnight stays on the tundra to continue bear watching.
The accommodation is unique, that at the end of the 6 week season everything must be removed from the area.
Hence the complex is built on huge wheels so that the entire unit can be driven back to base and does not stay in the Wapusk National Park.
Wapusk is First Nation Cree language for White Bear.
Within five kilometres we see Polar bears.
This one, a young four year old female, is still feeding on last nights seal kill.
She then has to clean up her coat by rubbing her body along the snow.
During our full day we see about 7 bears, some walking very close to the Tundra Buggy.
As winter approaches the Polar Bears congregate here waiting for the sea ice to form on the Hudson Bay. This allows them to get out to the seals that are resting and sunning themselves on the ice.
The warming of the oceans is meaning the ice is freezing later and thus seals not as available as previously.
Also spotted, 2 x Snowy Owl, many Ptarmigan, a Snow Hare and an Arctic Fox.
All, like this Ptarmigan, have now donned their pure white winter coats.
In all a great day.
The internet and a bit of homework saved us $1,000’s in setting up this side trip.
These trips are advertised at prices up to and beyond $5,000.
By driving to Thompson and storing the vehicle there. 2 nights Camping + 3 days storage $40.00 + return shuttle to station
McReedy Campground
Return Rail journey for 2 persons $210.00
Accommodation at Tundra Inn 2 nights $490.
Tundra Buggy full day for 2 people $800
www.tundrabuggy.com/polar-bear-tours
All up for 2 people Can$ 1540.00 ($770 each)
Remember the season only lasts 6 weeks in October/November.
Thursday /Friday 20th/21st October:
Exploring more of the town we hear gunshots. These are fired into the air to shoo off bears that are heading towards town.
Should they persist and enter town they are tranquillised or caught in a bear trap. Punishment is 14 days in the bear jail with only water. They then get a free helicopter ride out.
This is the tally so far this bear season.
There are signs throughout town warning not to go outside the town limits. Apparently a bear was tranquillised at the railway station whilst we were out yesterday.
All over northern Canada and Alaska are these Inukshuicks. They are the First Nation Inuit representations of people and show the way over mountains or towards food sources.
Polar Trucks always hold an interest for a ‘petrol head’ like me. This ‘rescued from the dump’ Suzuki Samurai had a new diesel motor and snow tracks from an ATV.
The young owner’s next project, this neglected Bombardier.
Returned by the 17 hour rail journey back to Thompson arriving 1pm on Friday.