Saturday 19th March:

The ancient town of Mulege on the date palm fringed Mulege River, and dates back to the 1700’s. Parked in the street, we set about to find a butcher because so far they have eluded us. Directly across the road from where we park we see a sign saying ‘carner’, exactly what we need. 1/2 kg of mince and 1kg of good looking steak cut thick as per our instructions MP100 or US$8 for the lot.

There was a lot of activity at the centre plaza and on investigation most of the town had gathered for the weekend cock fight.

Many people had their roosters in cages and waiting anxiously to take home top prize.

Overlooking the town is the “Santa Rosalia de Mulege” Mission built in 1706, and abandoned in 1828.

Lunch was in ‘The Shack’ under the bridge which served the best hamburgers at MP35 (US$3) and local draught beer.

Following the main highway 1 south past the beautiful Bay of Conception we had been given the rough directions to an isolated beach with high recommendation.

South of Mulege between mile post 49 and 48 is a rough track that follows a fence line then 9kms down a creek through a gate in the gorge.

Take the right side of ‘Y’ junction in the creek, then at 11kms (from the H’way) turn right, out of the creek and through a pass, then left at ‘T’ down to the best beach in Baja.

The bay is well protected from the wind in most directions and many boaties shelter here overnight.

Walking up the beach to the left is a memorability tree with messages from past travellers dating back many years.

The water is clear and calm. Ideal for the only other occupants, a couple of kayakers.

Tonight it is full moon and the moon 30,000kms closer to the earth than usual. Thus it is 18% bigger and 30% brighter.

Camp 39:  Punta San Basilio -

                                    The Best Beach Camp

N26* 22.247 W111* 25.980

Today:  153 Kms

Total: 11,010 Kms.

Sunday 20th March:

A day of nothing, exploring the island just off the beach, just a cocktail hour was approaching the military arrived in full combat readiness.

12 fully armed soldiers in a Unimog and an F250 came to inspect the beach and any unusual activity.

They were very friendly and within 1/2 hour the invasion was over and the beach returned to its idilic self.

Cocktail hour can now start !

Margaritas anyone?

Monday 21st March:

Returning to the highway and south to Loreto, a pretty town known as a water sports paradise, although a very stony beach.

The tree lined ‘malecon’ with all its tourist shops leads us to an old church dating back to 1697. This was the first permanent mission in California and the base for religious expansion in the area.

After a great Mexican lunch, we headed up to the Mission San Francisco Javier about an hours drive into the mountains.

Built over 300 years ago the timber altar back drops were shipped and then mule trained the 40kms up into the rugged mountains.

Back on H’way 1 and then following a faint track off the road our camp is on a small rocky beach

Camp 40:   Rocky Beach Camp

N25* 46.314 W111* 18.299

Today:  207 Kms

Total: 11,183 Kms.

Tuesday 22nd March:

What happened to the weather, now cold and windy again. The mountains at our back door are shrouded in mist and the rocky beach rumbles with every wave.

From the windy east coast now heading now back to the west coast and the small fishing and whale watching village of Puerto Adolfo Mateos.  This town would be alive during the whale season which has now just ended, yet the whale boat masters are numerous and still hungry for some business.  Declining their offers, and unable to find a suitable camp in town, ‘Lonely Planet’ mentions “a veritable ballena cruising strip some 27kms south of town”. 

Following numerous sandy tracks and 4x4ing through great lengths and depths of bull dust we arrive at La Florida a two shack fishing outpost.

Here they catch fish and collect scollops. and judging by the many piles of discarded shells it has been lucrative.

Camp is set 1/2 km up the track as around the camps are the remains of many smelly fish heads.

Everywhere in the desert of Baja are cacti and plants that have spikes, prickles, burs, and bindies. At La Florida I found this most alien predator plant seed. When you walked on it or brushed by the plant the four claws would grad and hold. The more you pulled it away the more the sharp points would dig in and hold. Very ingenious.

Camp 41:   Piles of Scollops Camp

N25* 02.532 W112* 07.362

Today:  176 Kms

Total: 11,394 Kms.

Wednesday 23rd March:

Now in Ciudad Constitution about 3/4’s of the way down the Baja Peninsula.

We did find the narrow whale passage this morning but on asking the fishing family that lived there all the whales had gone.

Ciudad Constitution is a rich farming community in the desert. Supplied by underground water (?) because there are no rivers they produce a variety of fruit, vegetables and spices.  With inter-netting and skyping done with friends and family we continue our efforts to explore the coasts and again head towards the east side.

past the Mission ‘San Luis Gonzaga’ built in the 1700’s then south via El Caporal, and Las Tinajas,

more than once asking directions at the small cattle ‘Ranchos’

Rather than drive the mountain range at dusk we camp up just off the road.

Camp 42:   Dry Stony Creek Camp

N24* 45.688 W111* 07.180

Today:  162 Kms

Total: 11,557 Kms.