Date: Monday 13th September 2010.

Yesterday we had the vehicles detailed for T40,000 (US$40) and a great job it was. Inside the cab, externally, and under the vehicle was all gleaming.

Interesting whilst John and Michael were there, they had a wealthy Mongolian make a cash offer on either of their vehicles; just name your price. Following the above conversation, later that evening we were invited by the local vehicle importer for dinner, he seriously wanted to give me an order for 20 vehicles! Finally he understood that I no longer was involved in the company producing them.

Visited the Black market again to top up food supplies, unfortunately whilst John had the group funds he was pick pocketed. Fortunately most of the shopping was done and it was only T20,500 (US$20) in the wallet.

Traveled about 90km out of UB on a very bull dusty track, it was rough and uncomfortable going so we called camp on an open plain after helping on old guy inflate his much repaired tyre tube.

The evening was very cold and windy. Recorded 2 degrees C during the night.

Camp 94: Camp Freeze N48*10.982 E106*44.442

Distance Travelled: 92 Kms

Total Distance: 19,074 Kms

Date: Tuesday 14th September 2010.

Awoke to a 5 degrees morning and overcast.

We had been following the railway line north as a loop towards the border however we now find it impossible to cross the rail tracks. All the roads lead to underpasses at creek beds that are only less than 2.5 meters. This requires us to return some 60kms back in the direction we have just come from. Thus finally we return to the bitumen and continue the ‘normal’ way to the border.

It continues to be cold and light rain is falling, at least it is washing the bull dust of our once clean trucks. In Bayanol rather than have our normal ‘on board’ lunch we eat a nice warm bowl of soup of mutton and pasta.

Tolls, Tolls and more Tolls. Into all the transit towns and out of some was a toll gate. The prices depended on the weight. Less than 3.5 Tonne, 3.5 to 7, 7 to 13 and over 13Tonne. Our weight is under 4.5T, but not always does the toll master have the prices displayed and simply demand the maximum. Although the tolls are only T500 to T1,500 (US$0.50 to US$1.50) I simply do not like to encourage exploitation of tourists so at each toll booth we politely negotiate…sometimes a little more sternly depending on his reaction. Anyway it made good CB conversation to fill in the travel time.

On the northern route towards Russia the trees begin to appear again. After so long without seeing trees it is surprising how one appreciates them when you finally see multiple numbers greening the hills and valleys.

Camp was by the Orhon Gol River.

Camel steaks were on the menu for this evening.

Tomorrow we will stay here, for the morning to fill in time so we can be at the border on the 16th when our Russian Visas start. Thus a clean up and vehicle maintenance day is planned for tomorrow.

Camp 95: Clean Up Camp N49*52.858 E106*14.531

Distance Travelled: 300 Kms 

Total Distance: 19,374 Kms

Date: Wednesday15th September 2010.

A lazy start, and then we seem to work doing many things up until 2pm, fortunately the weather is now sunny and without wind so it is very pleasant tinkering around the vehicle.

At the final major town Suhbaatar we refuel using our final Mongolian Money and changed the balance to Russian Roubles at the bank.

The border town of Altanbulag is only 500meters long and at 4pm there were no vehicles waiting so as our visas do not start until tomorrow camp is set just outside town.

As we have dinner and huddle around the camp fire we see empty Russian timber trucks heading towards the border, after 6 pass we elect to move to the border post and sleep in line and wait for the procedure to start tomorrow. At the border there are already 20 or so cars and those timber trucks.

It is now very cold and windy, so parked in the ‘truck’ line and the roof down we retreat to bed.

Camp 96: Mongolian Border Camp 

N50*19.211 E106*29.573

Distance Travelled: 80 Kms 

Total Distance: 19,452 Kms

In Mongolia we travelled 3,800Kms. Refuelled with 548Lts of fuel at an average of T1,300/Lt (US$1.00)( UB cost T1280, Far East T1400/litre) Total T698,438 (US$520)

Meals,tolls etc cost for 22days was T230,000 or T10,454/day (US$8.00/day /couple or US$4.00/day per person)…and we eat well, mostly on lamb and vegetables.

Plus the 5 hotel days @US$60 to 65 /day.

Plus Mougie’s guide fees, a requirement for visiting the Strictly Protected Areas for 14 days, totalling US$350 or per person US$5

Date: Thursday 16th September 2010.

A restless night with the continual arrival of more trucks and vehicles, it is also still very cold this morning.

The Mongolian gate apparently opens at 8am but nothing happens until 9am finally vehicles start to move but not from our line nor from the correct car and bus line on our right. Movement is from the left via the exit gate from Russia.

We continue to watch this and the traffic jams it causes, as typically no one gives up they just wait for the other person to move. However we do see cars and trucks moving through and cannot understand why not us, following some investigation by watching the procedure at the gate we see that the guard on duty is accepting bribes to enter. For our four vehicles US$50 was the asking price. I elected to wait rather than encourage further exploitation of foreigners because this is too high. (We paid our guide US$25/day for his services as a comparison)

Finally at 11am we make a move and drive around the trucks into the gate compound. If we cannot go then at least we have stopped all others passing and thus his further collection of bribes. With that and the help of a senior officer passing in the opposite direction telling the gate guard to let the foreign trucks through we are on our way to Russia.

The entire process, form filling, vehicle checking, vehicle scanning etc out of Mongolia and then similarly into Russia takes us 8 hours. A very complicated process that will be explained fully in the travel notes available later. Total Cost - Zero.

At 4.20pm we have our Temporary Vehicle Import Documents for Russia and with a final passport check we are through the last of many gates and into Russia.

There were no facilities to exchange money into Rouble within the border process, although we exchanged Mongolian money to Rouble in the last town in Mongolia the others did not. However once again thwarted by no power in the Russian border town of Kjahta hence no operational ATM or bank we camp just out side town to return at 9am tomorrow.

Camp 97: Russian Border Camp N50*20.858 E106*28.569

Distance Travelled: 19 Kms 

Total Distance: 19,490 Kms

Date: Friday 17th September 2010.

A quick town visit and food top up at the magazine (food shop) we head towards Chita…but not the normal way we will follow country roads for some 350kms saving over 250kms by not going the usual way via Ulan-Ude.

We are very close to the Mongolian border and the road follows it to our right. Constantly we see signs in Russian and English advising that this is a border zone and special papers are needed.

At an open gated check post I just have to check if this road is OK for us to travel. Following some complicated sign language we are given the ‘Da’ (yes) answer.

At morning tea stop, like Mongolia and even China, rubbish is everywhere particularly broken Vodka bottles. This time a perfectly good TV set – see it still has a good picture!

The roads are bitumen but rough. The truck bounces and lurches all the time, one has to watch constantly for deep pot holes and long series of severe corrugations that shudders the whole vehicle as it bounces across the road.

It is the winter rising of the permafrost that causes this waving of the road. However we do have trees!

In Bicura at the local well, the vehicle water tanks are topped up.

Camp is by a picturesque river

and lamb roast, baked potatoes, carrots and gravy is on the menu, followed by apple crumble and fresh cream. We stayed by the fire as long as we had timber to keep away the increasing cold chill.

Camp 98: Russian River Camp N50*44.884 E108*06.127

Distance Travelled: 207 Kms

Total Distance: 19,677 Kms

Date: Saturday 18th September 2010.

Freezing cold this morning at 4 degrees and low fog covered the country.

John had rekindled the fire so it was welcome.

So was the hot coffee and buttered toast.

Winter is coming !

The country road and the old bridges, here nothing has changed for many years.

Likewise the small villages unchanged and clouded in fog as winter approaches.

The small houses are built from the now plentiful pine logs and have greyed from years of weathering. The window frames always painted in varying shades of blue.

Outside sit the ageing babuska women and talk of old times. There must be little to do in these villages and it would seem that most of the young people have moved to larger towns for work and entertainment.

The trees also know winter is on the way and the colours of autumn now surround us.

Now on the main road east to Chita, the locals collect hay for winter stock feed carried on overloaded Kamaz trucks.

The road is still very rough so we are looking for an early camp. We are 280kms west of Chita and Lyn sees a small road side sign with a picture of a lake…that is it.

About 2 kms off the road camp for tonight!

Camp 99: Pine Tree Lake Camp N50*58.603 E111*14.483

Distance Travelled: 318 Kms

Total Distance: 19,995 Kms

Date: Sunday 19th September 2010.

Today in Chita, Mr Lenin still stands in the town square.

Beside the Military Museum Russian tanks and weapons are inspected by all the boys - young and old.

Following a long wait for an expensive lunch, perhaps our only meal mistake about US$15 each, we visited an old church built in 1771.

Found the road eventually heading east and about 50kms along, a sign confirming the correct travelling direction. 2050kms from Chita is Karvarosk then a further 750kms to Vladivostok.

Camp was by a small creek. Very pretty but now very cold, so quick scrambled eggs for dinner before retiring quickly.

Camp100:  River Camp

N52*00.103 E113* 58.887

Distance Travelled: 297 Kms

Total Distance: 20,292 Kms