Sunday 9th August 2009:

Leaving Cable Beach Camp we are on our quads once again driving an overgrown track to Rooga Point where we can look across the turquoise sea to Possession Island.  Returning to the main road we followed that as far as the Croc Tent. All of us were very dusty from the road travel and pleased at 1.7km past the tent to turn off and follow a track down to the mouth of Laradeenva Creek.

I knew the old telegraph line had to cross this track somewhere, and we were determined to find that. Just back from the fishing point on the river, there was an old World War II rest area, and here there is the slightest resemblance of a line through the trees. Following this hunch and 1 km in we found our first telegraph pole. The track is almost non-existent and would be impossible to drive in a normal vehicle. Even on the quads we had to use instinct to find the next telegraph pole. 

Remarkable here is the symbiotic Ant Orchards in the trees.

Inside the ants live in a harmonious arrangement with the host plant.

At a large bauxite hill, the line completely disappeared, and it was only the fact that a recent fire had gone through the area that allowed us to spread out and search. We were now all covered with ash and soot. By analysing the topography, where we would put a telegraph line, we found a shallow valley between two hills. We were indeed correct. From here on the line was more easily discernible, and after 8 kilometres, we emerged on the road back to Punsand Bay.

The afternoon was spent in the bar at Punsand Bay, where Lyn discovered Malibu was a refreshing and relaxing drink!

Returning to camp on the quads, Rob and Jan continued down the beach and found a small crocodile washed up. It hadn’t been dead for long as its skin and body was still soft and beautifully coloured. As much as we would like to have kept the skin for a souvenir rightfully we took it to the manager of Punsand. They were all suitably impressed as were the guests in the bar.

Throwing the 1 m croc on the bar, I tried to swap it for a Rum & Coke. The bartender had no humour at all and walked away in disgust!

Monday 10th August 2009:

We never get tired of view at the tip no matter how many times we have been here, it always remains impressive and the fabulous blue sea.

Thinking back, we have seen our children grow from children to adults standing in the same place - at the sign saying “You are standing at the northernmost point of Australia”.

The abandoned Pajinka Lodge looks worse every visit. Once an upmarket tourist resort owned by Qantas, it was purchased by the Federal government and handed back to the local Injinoo aboriginal community.

Soon after it has been reported that locals set fire to the generators and the desalination plant. The place was then ransacked and decay has set in.

Today it is an eyesore and testimony to bad decisions.

We camped at Somerset beach. It is a tropical setting, if you ignore the red dust blowing in the wind. During the afternoon, a couple of fellows arrived; they owned the barge that was moored on the beach. Michael went and chatted to them, and tomorrow they offered to taking us across to Albany Island. Nick and Leon purchased the lease in January and are going to run it as Pabaju Pearls and Wilderness Lodge. Originally, Albany Island was a pearling operation, this they will continue as well as running fishing trips and tours to the aboriginal paintings and gravesites. Next year, they will charge $50 head for what they are going to show us, but tomorrow we will just be a test run for them.

Tuesday 11th August 2009:

The barge rolled in the blue swell as we crossed to Albany Island. Like the rest of Cape York the island is volcanic, surrounded by a fringing coral reef.

Our ‘tour’ led us to a large cove with some aboriginal rock art depicting what they believe are war canoes, and the remnants of a large rainbow serpent. We were then treated to a wonderful morning tea with muffins and lamingtons in the shade of the open kitchen area overlooking the passage towards Somerset.

Whilst walking to the highest point on the island and the old gravesites we learnt of local aboriginal botanical knowledge. Like crushing leaves of the spiky freshwater mangrove tree and put them in a billabong, where the fish would be stunned and float to the surface, and the

The red and black Gidea Gidea Vine seeds were used for both decoration and as an abortion pill.

The seeds are highly toxic, but by putting in water the less toxic ones floated. These were then taken to abort a pregnancy. The comment was that they worked 50% of the time, the other 50% were lethal...I guess it means they were 100% effective. Dangerous stuff!

Eight old graves were at the top of the hill, that of Wall and Nibblett from the Kennedy expedition. HMAS Freak bought the bodies here from Shelburne Bay, where they were killed by aborigines. Kennedy was killed nearby in the Escape River but his body was never found.

We were not back at camp for long, before Nick returned in a small boat to pick up Paddy for a fishing expedition. He returned about an hour later with an 8 kilo Queen fish. Rob and Jan prepared it in alfoil and cooked in the coals. Delicious!

Wednesday 12th August 2009:

Sunrise over the bay was beautiful, and just improved with the passing of the Young Endeavour sailing ship.

Today is another quad day; the plan is to follow the beaches south of Somerset to the mouth of the Escape River. The track is easy to follow from beach to beach, crossing the intermediate headlands.

Continuing past the last inland track at Chandogoo Point we travelled behind the mangroves and across a small river. We had to move quickly now as not to get caught on the incoming tide at this point. It was then Saldegoo Beach and Cliffy Point before we could go no further on the quads.

We then walked the next 2 km onto Kilbie Beach and marvelled at the wide mouth of the Escape River. Returning quickly, we crossed the river and the mangroves on an incoming tide.

Returning to camp via the beautiful perched freshwater lakes of Wickeura

and Lake Bronto.

Thursday 13th August 2009:

Following a further invitation from the boys of Albany Island, we loaded all of us and three quad bikes onto their barge.

While the girls and Paddy went fishing around the island, Robert, Michael and myself were invited to push a track across to Pioneer Bay. With axe and machete we cut and pushed our way through thick scrub, vine scrub, down rocky escarpments and through the final rainforest fringe before we finally broke through to Pioneer Beach.

Pioneer Beach is fabulous pristine and isolated beach.

We met the barge and everyone else on the beach.

Whilst we were enjoying our track making adventure Paddy had landed a 7Kg Trevalli for dinner.