Tuesday 7th August 2007:  From information we obtained at the Mongolian Consulate in Ulan-Ude they do not issue visas on a Tuesday, hence we had to fill in a day.  We wandered around the shops, Gay and Lyn managed to buy new sandals to replace the ones that were stolen at Lake Baikal.

The buildings are a mixture of original old log type and very modern concrete and steel. The large mall, without traffic was pleasant to walk and people watch. It would seem that this is also what the locals do, as the mall was full of young and old. The young drank beer from the brown bottles and smoked, the old drank coffee and smoked. Both watched the passing parade as we did.

That evening we camped next to the Selenga River outside the town. We had a great position overlooking the river and the passing Trans Siberian Trains on the other side.

Camp 40: Ulan-Ude Big River Camp with Trains

Distance Today: 35Kms

Wednesday 8th August: At 9am we were smartly at the consulate only to be told that we can apply only at a travel agency. The very well spoken gentleman at the consulate recommended one, and just across the road everything was put in place for the visas to be ready at 6pm (1700RUB A$68each) the same day. Visited coffee shops, and internet cafes to kill time.

There was an Ethnographic Museum about 8km out of town and this is a reconstruction of all the old building styles from the tepees used by the originals, to the log houses. Attached was also a not so well presented zoo.

Back to town we went 3 times in early anticipation to the agency for our visas before we were on our way towards the Mongolian border at 6.30pm. It was a 200 km drive, with the idea of camping at the border gate ready for a first in line start. 

Arriving at a very late 11.30 we were tired and just a bit on edge. In the end we could not find the actual border gate road in the maze of streets in and around the small border town. In frustration we camped in the forest just out of town to start tomorrow with a clear mind and some daylight.

Camp 41: Mongolian Forrest Border Camp

Distance Today: 222Kms

Thursday 9th August: From where we stopped and gave up last night the border gate was only 2Kms further on, we just had to follow the road and spend a few moments translating the sign that said ‘CUSTOMS’ in Cyrillic.

There were already 20 or so vehicles in the haphazard line up, but we concluded that it would have made no difference arriving at such a late hour last night anyway. The gates opened at 9am, and we were surprisingly asked to change lanes because they classed us as a ‘truck.’ This upset the two Italians who in there usual manner complained to no avail. To somehow make up for last night we were the second vehicle through the gate.

The whole border crossing process took 2 hours, and although we could not see a defied path past the various windows and desks on both sides we managed.

Both the exit from Russia and the entry into Mongolia the staff were helpful and understanding in our lack of speech in the local languages.  The costs amounted to US$4 for ‘spraying’ of the tyres, quarantine I guess, and 700RBL (A$30) for third party Mongolian Vehicle Insurance.

At 11.30 we were in Mongolia and immediately visited the local roadside stall for some coffee and Mongolian goulash.  Very nice and very inexpensive at A$7.00 for all 4 of us.

From information sourced from the Lonely Planet book I had found an authentic, and only one of three, manufacturers of Mongolian hunting bows in the small village of Dulaankhaan. 

We located the family who proudly showed how it was made from Ibex and Reindeer horn, sinew from sheep leg, and a local tree sap as glue. I had previously decided that this would be our souvenir of Mongolia. For US$200, considering that they take 3 weeks to make, I felt the price reasonable.

The country, as we drove though towards the capital of Ulaanbaatar was uniquely different and spectacular in its starkness.

Green rolling hills and mountains, mostly devoid of any trees, were unique also because in Mongolia there are no fences. The cattle, long haired sheep and goats, occasionally yaks, graze everywhere, tended by the expert owners on their horses.  Very friendly and most wave as we drive by.

Our arrival in Ulaanbaatar was a contrast. The drivers aggressive on the road, no road signs, and no street signs. One million people live here, half the population of Mongolia. I think all of them were on the road going to and from somewhere.

Lonely Planet had recommended a valley towards Khandgait as a great camping place, and that was our destination. Unfortunately the urban sprawl had moved up the valley and we drove for over one hour from the city centre before we finally left the houses and found some green country side to camp.

The local farmer dropped in to camp on the way home from cutting clover for his sheep. We enjoyed chatting by sign language.

Soon after another couple of guys arrived and tried to scam some money. They posed as park rangers and said we were not allowed to camp here nor have an open fire and we would be fined. We have become a little more travel savvy now and I asked to see their ID. That was not forthcoming, however I mentioned that if they have a problem with us here they should first clear it with the local farmer in the house “Over There” and pointed to where the farmer had just returned. At that stage they gave up, but still kept up a very good show.

Ulaanbaatar is a thriving and dynamic city.

There is money being made here, perhaps not by all but it is being spread around. A couple of Hummers and a 2 door Bentley confirm that. Construction is happening in both the city in high rise, and in the suburbs where new modern housing is going ahead at a great pace.  The suburban houses, although small on our standards, are brightly coloured with their red, blue or green roofs and either light stained pine timber or red brick sides. Surprisingly unlike the country side, each house has timber fenced off their domain.

The toilets are in the far back corner of the fenced area or alternatively they share the toilets along the road side.

Sometimes we see two squatting areas side by side in the same small building – how very communal!

Camp 42: Green Acres Camp- Urban Ulaanbaatar

Distance Today: 380Kms  

Friday 10th August:  This morning we are back to town, doing the tourist thing.

The Natural History Museum has to be a highlight with the best displays I have ever seen of Dinosaurs of all shapes and sizes, Dinosaur eggs, and meteorites.  Mongolia, too, was subjected to Stalin’s reign of terror. The Victims of Political Persecution Museum depicts the purges of the 1930’s, and the loss of thousands of Monks, writers, poets and thinkers.

We museumed our selves out, had lunch at Millies. Really a feast at an upmarket restaurant, 2 courses, drinks, etc all for A$36.

The day ended with a local dance and song show in the park and dinner at the Silk Road Restaurant. It was then time for more fighting of the suburban traffic to camp in a different valley at the edge of the green belt surrounding the city.

Camp 43: Suburbs Camp outside Ulaanbaatar – Capital of Mongolia.

Distance Today:  45Kms

Total Distance to Date: 11,954 Kms