17. Across Europe to to the UK
17. Across Europe to to the UK
Saturday, 22 September 2007
22-30th September:
Our drive west to London started with the 4x4 track out of the Russian 4x4 competition area and continually improved from dirt roads, to country roads, two lane Russian highways with their usual unevenness, to Poland’s 4 lane toll freeway, then Germany’s 6 and 8 lane autobahns. The reality had hit us that the adventure was drawing to a close.
There would be no more visits from the Mongolian herdsmen, nor the Vodka drinking friendly Russians. Now we are just one of the many vehicles zapping along the highway a hurry to get somewhere. One does not even feel part of the country as you pass through. These super highways are contained within long concrete barriers keeping out the surrounding world.
I had driven over 24 thousand kilometres when we arrived at the Latvian border, and only then, did one of the officials notice that my international drivers licence was valid up to 3,500 kilo, when our vehicles weighed 4490 kilo. (The GMV on the registration papers.)
In Australia our standard licence is valid for 4,500 kilo, but not the international one. This I had also not noticed.
After 2 hours of discussion the three stared official came out of the ‘Control’ building and said
“One vehicle Latvia, one vehicle Ruski”.
Bill fortunately had a truck licence hence he did not have a problem.
Then we said to the official “How do we get to London?”
His response was “You can walk, or go by bus, but the vehicle stays in Russia”
“But…But.” Etc as I try to persuade him
“It is not my problem!” was his response as he walked away to prepare the deportation papers.
We had a young lady, one of the border control officials, translating for us, who I felt was a little on our side. With her help, I thought we may have a solution. What if we returned to ‘No mans land’ in the middle where the Duty Free Shop was, we could perhaps arrange for one of truck drivers to drive my vehicle across the border. The three stared official stated there were cameras watching and the paperwork had already been done, so that could not happen.
Our hearts sank, and as we were madly planning our next move to leave the truck in Russia and fly back to Australia to obtain the necessary paperwork, a second three stared official arrived on the scene. He seemed to grasp the situation and immediately arranged a driver from a passing van to jump in my truck and drive it to a holding area within Latvia.
Lyn and I could now proceed to have our passports stamped and walk through the gates into Latvia.
Somewhere in this whole process we had become real people, not just another number in the procession through the border. That, and some fast, and friendly talking saved the day. This may also serve as a warning to other travellers to recognise the weight difference on our driver’s licences. Technically I am driving illegally in Europe – but only if I get caught!
As we approached that border from Russia into Latvia there was a long line of trucks but nothing like the 49 Kilometres that were waiting to enter Russia from Latvia. The distance we measured; and yes, 49 kilometres.
There must have been thousands of trucks and one can only imaging the costs of all that freight standing idle for days. It is a fair indication of the exploding demand in Russia for foreign goods and the rapid growth of the economy.
Similarly from Germany to Poland the truck line stretched for 22 kilometres.
In the Netherlands we caught up with Fred Krijgsman.
Fred is a freelance journalist and photographer for many 4x4 magazines. I have Fred known for years having met him during events in Malaysia, New Zealand and many Outback Challenges.
We camped in the trucks outside his house that his family has occupied for 98 years. The house and street were both narrow, the vehicles making an unusual addition to the old neighbourhood.
Following doing the Holland windmill thing, we headed south and crossed the English Channel by ferry.
Feeling initially a little uncomfortable back on the right side of the road, we settle in quickly, and dropped in at Canterbury,
Stonehenge, and Bath for the tourist thing on our way to Devon.
The vehicles are now cleaned. Bill’s prepared for the container journey back to Australia, and ours, left here to be collected when we return to continue our travels.
Camp 93-94: Simon & Liz Buck’s - Devon 4x4 in the UK
Highlights: Not having to go back to Russia when Latvia would not accept my drivers licence
Total Distance of trip: 25,500 Kilometres
Currently our plans are to return in February 2008 to spend 6 weeks exploring Morocco, Mauritania, and Senegal, then in July/August to see Ireland and Scotland. The eventual plan is to return to Morocco in 2009 and cross the Sahara to Egypt and drive to Cape Town. Plans change…but I must start with a plan.
Many travellers would ask, “It must be expensive travelling like this?” I do not believe so.
Firstly we carried our own accommodation, and we only stayed in hotels for a total of 6 days in 4 months. Food we mostly purchased in local markets and prepared ourselves, or eat at small road side truck stops. Travelling in undeveloped Eastern Russia and Mongolia was the best, western Russia was a too much of a road trip.
Our costs in Mongolia for food (and we eat well), drink (wine, beer, spirits) and entry to national parks etc was A$2.90 per person per day. Eastern Russia was probably around A$4.50 per person per day.
Hence fuel is the main expense:
✦Vladivostok to Magadan – 5,400Km, 900Lt A$861.00. 17Lt/100Km or 16.5mpg.
This section we were pushing fast!
✦Magadan to Mongolia – 5,950Km, 792Lt A$849.00. 13Lt/100Km or 21mpg
✦Mongolia – 5,250Km, 604Lts A$1017.00. 13Lt/100Km or 21mpg.
✦Mongolia to St Petersburg 7,027Kms, 1008Lts A$698.00 12Lt/100Km or 23mpg.
✦St Petersburg to Devon(UK) 4,280Kms, ? Lts A$816.00
The trip has been great. The best experiences happened when they were not planned.
✦The friendship and help provided by the Orista Company in Port Vostochny during our three week delay in getting the vehicles.
✦The 3 Russian firemen who arrived at our camp site to go swimming, and ended up drinking mates.
✦Breakfast at the Zamackta Weather Station, after asking directions on logging tracks to Lake Baikal.
✦The numerous Mongolian herdsmen who dropped in to say ‘hello’ and finished asking us back to their ger camp.
✦The camel train that arrived out of the desert at our ‘isolated’ camp.
✦The invitations to the 4x4 competitions
✦And all the smiling people along the way.