Part 18: Uruguay - OXO - The little beef cube with a big story!

Friday, 1 November 2013

 

Wednesday 30th October:

Uruguay is only a river bridge away from Argentina, but what a difference. Hard to put your finger on it. More modern houses and fuel stations yet horse drawn carts !

Less expensive food but Diesel expensive at just under US$2/Lt, plenty of old 1940/50’s vehicles on the road mixed with all the modern brands and more than 10 Chinese imports.


In Paysandú we started to camp in the town park, unsure we asked a passing couple. He turned out to be the tourist manager and suggested Costa Brava on the Uruguay River about 9kms out of town.

It is a small village and nowhere suitable until a local offered to take us to a place. When we arrived they wanted money for camping which we declined saying we do not need anything (electricity/water,etc) and will find somewhere else. Much happened, a few telephone calls, a tour of a beautifully restored Portuguese military building into a restaurant and function room, and then an english speaking voice on the telephone saying we can camp here
for free, and enjoy the facilities.


Sometimes things just fall into place.


Camp 364: Camp Ground - New

Aldes Nómade

Cost: Nil

S32* 23.717    W058*  09.317

Today:  234Kms

Trip Total: 112,868Km






Thursday 31st October:



The simple OXO beef cube was made by The Liebig Extract of Meat Company in this remote town.


Below the story of why this place was known as “La Gran Cocina del Mundo”


....The Big Kitchen of the World.




What a great way to end our journey of discovery with this wonderful place.

For those of you who have ever used the humble Oxo cube it all started in this small town here in Uruguay. The towns name is Fray Bentos....... Sound familiar?



In 1840, Baron Justus Liebig, an organic chemist, developed a concentrated beef extract to provide a cheap and nutritious meat substitute for those unable to afford the real thing. However European meat was too expensive for it to fill that role. 


George Christian Giebert, a young Belgian engineer, read of Liebig's work and wrote to him suggesting that they meet to discuss opening a manufacturing plant in South America. This was the time before canning or freezing meat was possible, and the cattle were only  killed for their hides alone. The cost of meat was thus one third of the European cost, so the Liebig Extract of Meat Company (Lemco) was established on 4 December 1865 in London with a capital of £150,000.



A young man by the name of Nicholas, who could speak good English, took us for a tour.

Above one of 3 huge Vats where the beef was boiled to remove the fat


The Societe de Fray Bentos Giebert & Cie., operated on the banks of the Uruguay River at Villa Independencia, Uruguay, later called Fray Bentos, where the extract was manufactured.


The presses that were used to squeeze the liquid from the meat after boiling.



The four concentration vats that then reduced the water content to produce the final product.


The remaining squeezed beef was used in the corned beef production with the addition of salt and fat.






The factory was the first to use electricity in Uruguay, four years before the capital Montevideo. 


Left one of four huge steam driven generators.



In 1924 Anglo del Uruguay, a UK based company took over the Germany company after Uruguayan Government put pressure on the  Germans after the WWI defeat.


The works and yards at Fray Bentos ranked among the largest industrial complexes in South America and helped usher in the industrial revolution there.


The plant played a major role in the development of Uruguay's cattle sector, which is still one of the country's main sources of export products.


It attracted many European immigrants and, in its heyday, had 5,000 employees, from over 60 countries.

Children as young as 11 years old were also employed.


An animal was processed here every five minutes, and in the huge room above, up to 1500 cattle were killed each day, and it took 30 minutes from killing to freezer.

Every part of the animal was used.  Even the hairs on the ears were used as bristles in paint brushes.  It is said only the cows ‘Moo’ was not sold.


It takes 3 kg of meat to make 100g of extract. The extract was promoted in Europe as being invaluable not only as a supplement for the malnourished but also in the kitchen. The product enjoyed an immense rise in popularity. By 1875, 500 tonnes of the extract were being produced at the Fray Bentos plant each year. It became a staple in middle-class European households and for soldiers, including the Allied forces of World War II.

During the war, shipments from Uruguay to the Uk were often attacked by German U-Boats such was its supply importance.


European adventurer Henry Stanley took it to Africa when looking for Livingstone, Scott took it to Antarctica, Edmond Hillary to Everest, and Jules Verne wrote it was a necessity for the voyage to the moon.

In 1964, a typhoid outbreak in the UK was traced to Fray Bentos (Anglo) corned beef. Investigations revealed that the cooling water used in the canning process at the plant was not being consistently chlorinated. Meanwhile, Britain's entry into the Common Market affected trade patterns. These factors combined had a serious negative impact on sales, and in 1971, the complex was given to the Uruguayan government.


T
he plant's viability never recovered and the production ceased completely in 1979, a major blow to the area's residents.


It was truly a fascinating place, basically after closing down in 1979 the government recognised its heritage and kept it as it was. UNISCO is now considering world heritage listing.


The name Fray Bentos is now owned by W.A. Baxters & Sons (UK) and in Australia by Campbell Australia Pty Ltd and both have been selling canned meat pies under that name since 1958.



So there you have it.....the humble beef cube with a big story!


Interesting Note: The brand was originally simply OX.  However a worker on the wharf made a face out of the brand, adding an extra ‘O’ on all the boxes shipped.  The soldiers in the war loved the stuff, and so the orders came in from the British Government asking for OXO.  The powers that be, scratched their heads, then realized that it was OX they were referring to. The name OXO has stuck ever since!


Above is the accountants desk ! He worked here for 47 years and you can see the wear marks in the pine floor.

For more info on Fray Bentos see   www.anglo.8m.com


Tonight is Halloween and by chance we camp next to a deserted house, where the howling wind made strange noises in the night !!




Camp 365: Ghost House Camp

Cost: Nil

S33* 38.091    W057* 41.512

Today:  240Kms

Trip Total: 113,108Km






Friday 1st November:



Today we arrived at Nueva Helvecia (Colonia Swuiza) our final destination, and the resting place for our truck for a few months.  The rain is bucketing down, not good weather for washing or cleaning. 


On Sunday, a bus to Montevideo for our flight home and Christmas with family and friends.




Camp 366: Hotel Swiss: Hotel, Restaurant, Campground, and Vehicle storage - Nueva Helvecia.

Cost: Storage US$2/day

S34* 18.932    W057* 13.871

Today:  103Kms

Trip Total: 113,211Km


www.hotelsuizonuevahelvecia.com

Rolf Raber PH: (00598) 4554 4002


http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=-34.31557,-57.23117&ll=-34.31557,-57.23117&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1


During the last 4 months we have travelled 16,626kms from Panama, through Colombia, Venezuela, Brazil, Argentina and now Uruguay. This  brings our travels to over 113,000kms since leaving Australia.


So many friendly people we have met along the way, and our thanks to all of them who have made our journey memorable.


We return in February 2014 to continue our travels in South America.

Cheers

Kym n Lyn


Below the Andes Mountains - Part of what we look forward to driving next year !!

The high mountain is Aconcagua - at 6,962metres it’s second only to Everest.


 
 
 

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