Marrakesh back to Spain

Tuesday 20th March 2008: Last night it was a cold minus 3 degrees, and we woke to snow on the vehicle.

The cloud cover lifted to reveal snow covered peaks surrounding us. We are actually above the clouds in clear air. Walking up the road further we are surrounded by locals all very keen to hire us ski equipment. We are quite happy to walk further up the road and enjoy the mountains.

Returning back past the ski lift, the highest in Africa, it is now working, and foolishly Lyn suggests may be we should go to the top. Well it was a dozen or more yes/no’s before she confirmed a yes. We were already at 2,650metres and the top is at 3250metres. It was half way up before she managed to open her eyes and ‘enjoy’ the impressive surroundings. It was very cold, and we were pleased we were in our NZ heavy jackets, gloves and beanies. I could not persuade Lyn to alight at the top, but was happy to have done the loop, being above the clouds with the backdrop of snow peaks and blue sky was great.

Marrakech is one busy and diverse city. Modern hotels and new condominiums contrasted with donkey carts in the streets. We had been given the location of a campground and after settling in caught a taxi to the centre of town in readiness for the night markets. Crowded shoulder to shoulder, apparently it was Mohammed’s birthday so that added to the excitement. Story tellers, snake charmers, group games, dancers, all intermingled with nut sellers, food stands, fortune tellers, and balloon sellers. The crowd was made up of a cross section of locals and foreigners from every continent. It was a bit much for us ‘open country lovers’ being hassled from every direction to buy, to donate, to give to participate etc. We escaped to an upstairs restaurant for dinner, and thought a beer would be nice with dinner, that was not to be. Being a Muslim country most places do not sell alcohol some do, this one belonged to the negative.

Returning to the camp site by the same taxi guy, we arranged with him a city tour tomorrow for 40Dh each, it will save driving the truck around the small unknown streets.

Camp 15: Marrakech Camp. Distance travelled: 91Kms. Total: 5887Kms.

Tuesday 21st March: The taxi was picking us up at 10am so had some time to grease the truck and some general maintenance. Also noticed a MAN 4x4 camper in the grounds so went over and had a chat to the Spanish guy who builds them. Impressive rig but very big. 4 rooms, 500litres water, 600Lts fuel, all up weight 9.5tonne. He has just returned from Mali and was telling me he had to winch down trees on the tracks to get through!

The taxi bus took us and others to the grand palace (20 years to build, 15 years to rape of its treasurers), the Tombs of Soodiam, and some beautiful gardens built by a French artist.
Returning to the campground, I was annoyed that the taxi driver ripped us off with the price. He insisted he was quoting Euro not Dirham. Anyway the price dropped from 450Dh to a final 300Dh, but I was still felt taken. I have learnt that the Moroccans offer a hand of friendship with the right hand and the other is already out asking for money!
We elected to stay the extra night and relax for the afternoon.

Camp 16: Marrakech Camp No2. Distance travelled: 0Kms. Total: 5887Kms.

Tuesday 22nd March: With our taxi driver situation yesterday, we had just enough money to pay for the camping and left for the supermarket with 6Dh in our pocket, about A$0.90. Fortunately ATM’s are plentiful so we feel fulfilled and with some resupply we are off to the Cascades D’Ouzoud.

Detouring to just outside Demnate we stopped to walk down to a natural bridge, then drove another 8Kms to inspect some Dinosaur footprints. As we pull up to the site about 30 children run to the truck wanting to guide us to the very obvious footprints. It was such a hassle continually telling them we do not need their help that it made it very unpleasant. Taking one quick photograph we left. Truly the young have been spoilt by the French and Spanish by paying them for everything. You ask directions, and immediately they want 5Dh, often on dirt roads they stand in front of the truck picking stones off the road and then ask for money, girls in the street pick flowers and offer them to you, then ask for money. It not money it is bom boms (lollies), stylos (biros) or cigarettes.

Camped at the falls, it was my turn to haggle for the camp fees, down from 50Dh to 30Dh. I feel better now that I have had a small win!

The falls are beautiful and worth the trip down and up the 500 or so steps. They fall over 110metres in three steps. At the bottom the small steel bridge linking the two sides of the stream has broken, and the inventive locals have strapped some 44gallon drums together, added a platform, and chairs with lots of plastic flowers and instant money machine.

All down the walking path are stalls and restaurants selling tajins, tea, coffee and crapes. This place is very popular with Moroccans and well as tourists.

Camp 17: Falls Camp. Distance travelled: 235Kms. Total: 6123Kms.

Tuesday 23rd March: Today we head towards the coast of the Atlantic Ocean at Safi. Following the gorge road down the mountains the scenery reminds us of Australia; red rock strata sediments in green eucalyptus trees everywhere. I find it surprising how many eucalyptus and wattle trees are scattered across Morocco. The eucalyptus do get a hard time, constantly being cut for their wood, then resprouting.

In Safi, the old Portuguese fort of Qasr Al-Bahr dates back to the 17th century and was a trading port for both the east Indies spices and the slaves of Africa bound for Portugal. Still in place are some of the original cannons. The ‘Castle of the Sea’ overlooks the small fishing port famous for its sardine fleet and the walled medina (living area).

Finding the camping grounds we walked the 5Kms back into town and had a meal of local fish; probably on of our best meals in Morocco. Too heavy to walk back up the hill it was a cheap 20Dh in the local ‘petit taxi’.
Camp 18: Safi Camp. Distance travelled: 305Kms. Total: 6429Kms.

Tuesday 24th March: Heading north from Safi we follow the Atlantic coast and call in at a beach where the waves are so perfect it is the site for the Billabong Surf classic.

The rugged limestone cliffed coast is broken by sandy beaches that are becoming populated with continuous lines of condos. At the town of El-Jadida we explore the twisted and narrow streets of the old Portuguese walled city. On the ramparts of the fortress walls that guard the city and the port are more canons that have the date 1272 on stamped on them.

Heading further north we jumped on the motorway, bypassed the 4.7million people of Casablanca, and headed for Rabat and its sister city across the river of Sale. Eventually we found the camp site in Sale. Most of these Moroccan camp sites are pretty disgusting; this one typical, no hot water in the showers, some showers without doors, and the toilets, well there is only one and hold your breath!

We caught a ‘grand taxi’ back to Rabat and wandered the markets within the Medina. We found our way to the oldest part of the city. Again, we were approached by a young man who insisted on showing us around. Constantly I said to him, “I do not want a guide” His reply: “No, free, I friend and live here, will show you around.” I know this is not the case.
Eventually we walk another way; he follows us and asked for 40Dh. My reply was a firm “No”, which bought the response “…something…Rubbish.” It does not leave me with a good impression of Morocco people and their attitude to tourists.

We were going to have dinner locally, but returned to the camper and cooked some spicy sausages.

Camp 19: Sale Camp. Distance travelled: 352Kms. Total: 6881Kms.

Tuesday 25th March: Following the coast this morning instead of the highway afforded us great views of the rugged coastline. We are heading to the National park Merdja Zerga to see the flamingos if they are there and to lunch at the seaside. Lyn’s navigation got us there but on the wrong side of the lake, but that is Ok because probably we were not hungry at 2pm. Anyway there were no flamingos, but our seafood lunch was very nice. Not a touch on our Ozzie seafood but after 3 weeks of tajines it was most welcome.

From the restaurant we could see the blue rolling surf of the Atlantic Ocean as it washed up on the wide sandy beach; with the gum trees lining the road in it was reminiscent of home.

It was getting late in the day so decided to jump on the highway to Tangier. Lyn has a real problem with maps and we were only lost for an hour in the gnarly traffic of that town. Then all of a sudden, when we least expected it there was the camping sign. We doubted ourselves because the direction lead us across some very muddy ground, then up hairpin bends on very disused concrete, then only to arrive at a locked gate. Yes, it had the correct name of the campground, but little room to turn around. Lyn’s navigation day was saved as all of a sudden the gates opened and we were ushered in. We had found the disused back door to the camp ground.

The caretaker welcomed us, and in our discussions suggested that perhaps we should leave by the same way so we would not get lost finding the front gate. Did he know something I did not!

Camp 19: Tangier Back Door Camp.
Distance travelled: 314Kms. Total: 7095Kms.

Tuesday 26th March: With an early start of 7am we were off the Ceuta and our ferry crossing back to Spain. Arriving at the customs border of the Spanish province at 9am , it was a good two hours doing the necessary paperwork out of Morocco and in to Ceuta. Actually only about 15 minutes of paperwork the rest of the time was inching forward in the vehicle, and resisting running over others who tried to push in.

The vehicle carrying catamaran carries 945 passengers and a significant number of vehicles. As I was about to drive off the ferry after the one hour trip I noticed with some pride that this vessel was built in Western Australia.

The afternoon covered a good distance past all those Spanish condominiums again, and camped at ‘Capode Gata’ National Park camp grounds. Expensive at €25 (A$40) after Morocco, but the showers are clean, hot and the water lasts forever.

Camp 20: Long Hot Showers Camp.
Distance travelled: 460Kms. Total: 7555Kms.

Morocco Part 3

Tuesday 17th March 2008: The morning was spent wandering the Benhaddou Kasbar, impressive, but they start to look all very similar. This one very much reconstructed as it has been used in many movie sets. The local town of Ouarzazate is home to many movie studios and the Alas studios offers ours so that was our next stop after catching up on internet etc.

The Atlas studios was where ‘Gladiator’, ‘Jewel of the Nile’, ‘Mummy 1 & 2’, and ‘Ten Commandments’ were made. We walked around the sets that were constructed for these films; reconstructions of Egypt, slave markets, and the town of Jerusalem. The latter took one year to construct and was used for 45 minutes in the movie. Behind the impressive facades were just plaster-of-paris and bamboo frames.

Camp that evening was typical of my camps; up a track to the top of a ridge some 8kms from the road. The valleys spread before us. We set camp and walked around discovering some old mines and the remains of smelter works. On checking the maps we discover these are old silver mines.

Camp 12: Old Silver Mine Camp. Distance travelled: 79Kms. Total: 5371Kms

Tuesday 18th March: This was a great day of travelling mountain pistes and tizis; tracks and mountain passes.

Initially it was not to be but the sealed road headed south them arched north again…why not take the dotted line that joins the two. It started firstly as a bitumen road and slowly deteriorated down to a mountain goat track. We amazed ourselves in the navigation through the many turn offs that headed into mountain villages and goat shelters.

The track was rough in places roughly hewn out of the bare mountain side with many a near vertical drop off to the side. It wound its way over the Tizi at 2,4000metres, with snow not so far off to the side. Fortunately the only vehicles we met were a Dutch push bike rider, then two French 4x4 vehicles. Apart from the pleasant exchange it was good to confirm our directions were correct; and we met where we could pass without difficulty.

The track was 140Kms long and took 5hours.

Following lunch in the very dusty and wind swept town of Aoulouz it was then on to Morocco’s most spectacular and dangerous road; well at least according to ‘Lonely Planet’…the road over Tizi n Test.

This sealed road snaked itself up a near vertical mountain side. In 17Kms we rose 1.4Kms to 2,100metres. Many times as we quickly glance over the side of the road we can see our road numerous times zigzag back and forth below us.
I thoroughly enjoyed the road, unfortunately Lyn finished up with a headache constantly worrying about oncoming vehicles on the very narrow road, particularly around numerous blind corners.

We could not find a camping spot, and drove till 7pm when finally we saw what we thought was a camping ground. It turned out to be a tourist hotel bathed in wisteria, and if we had dinner there, then camping in their grounds would not be a problem. We gratefully accepted, unfortunately it was the most expensive meal we have had, and the worst meal. It was however in very pleasant surroundings with log fire, comfortable cane chairs, and a bottle of Moroccan red wine!

Camp 13: Wisteria Camp. Distance travelled: 306Kms. Total: 5678Kms.



Tuesday 19th March: We just can not help ourselves…we found another dotted line. Why drive the 40Kms into Marrakech and back out in the next valley when there is a perhaps perfectly good track leading over the mountains.

This one was good, slightly used, and tracked 1,800metres up the side of the valleys. Often looking very quickly over the side was a near vertical drop off down to our original track below. The views were breathtaking. According to the map there was another short cut to the road to Oukaimeden our next destination. Confidently we found the turn off and headed off on the right hand piste. This was even narrower and clung precariously to the vertical rock face. There was no where to turn around should we need, let’s hope no other vehicle approaches. We continued like this for 8Kms through and past villages that also clung precariously to the mountain side. The track slowly getting less used as we pass by each Kasbah house. Finally we needed to confirm our direction. The Moroccans speak their local language and French, no English. By our bad pronunciation of Oukaimedan it was confirmed that we were on the wrong track. Bugger!
.
Finding a suitable place to do a 6 point turn re retraced our steps. Much to the delight of the boys in one village who insisted on attempting to ride on the rear bumper bar of the truck as we very slowly (5-8KPH) negotiated the tight track. It was very disconcerting knowing that those boys could do themselves harm, yet I had to concentrate on the track as below the left hand mirror was a vertical drop. Thankfully they soon tired and allowed me to return all my attention to the road.

Finally back at the ‘T’ junction we continued on the same road for 2kms and then found the sign to right to Oukaimedan, this piste looked very unused and by this time Lyn was ‘pist’ed off’ of pistes. Continuing we soon joined the bitumen to Oukaimedan.

At 2,300metres we drove through and into the clouds, finally at 2,6000metres we arrived at the only true Moroccan sky resort. There is a little snow/ice on the road side and it is a cold 10degrees outside. We can not see because of the dense cloud cover but I estimate there is no real snow cover because most of the accommodation is deserted. Actually the place looks very run down.
Rugged up, we had yet another tajine (hot-pot) for an early dinner at 5pm and watched the truck disappear in the increasing cloud only 100metres from our table. Constantly we are offered by sellers, fossils, crystal geodes, beads, silver jewellery, Berber daggers etc, if not to buy then they are happy to swap. To date I have been offered 2 carpets for my hat, and a fossil for my jacket. Lyn was offered a fossil dish for her shoes. Lyn has some under sized shoes; let’s see what we can swap those for!

With visibility at 50metres we slowly followed the road to a parking spot were we set camp.

Camp 14: In the Clouds Camp. Distance travelled: 118Kms. Total: 5796Kms.

Tuesday 20th March: Last night it was a cold minus 3 degrees, and we woke to snow on the vehicle.
Today to Marrakech.

Morocco Part 2

Monday 10th March 2008: We leave our desert camp at our now usual time of 9am and head towards the Atlas Mountains. Firstly a refuel and the internet visit in the town of Erfoud and to send postcards home.

Just as we were about to leave town, Lyn’s front tooth fell out. It was an implant done some 20 years ago. Not wanting to look like all the local women, we needed to come up with a quick fix. I did not have any superglue on hand but I do have some engine block repairer. With some quick puttying of the mixture Lyn’s tooth is now back in place and she can comfortable smile again….Three days later it is still in place!

We were driving past some old water wells, some of which were still in use so we stopped to investigate. As soon as we stopped a young man ran out from is tent and invited us in for tea. I do specifically remember his saying free and no obligations. We thought how friendly. He explained that each line of water wells belongs to a different tribe,( the Berbers, the Nomads etc) and as one goes dry they dig another in the same line but deeper into the aquifer.(now at 25metres) The tea was very sweet; particularly as he kept breaking big roughly cast lumps of sugar into the tea pot. Then came the crunch, “Look my brother digs these fossils” and “My sister makes this jewellery out of camel knee bones”. Actually it was not camel knee bone but a cowrie shell, and looked very ‘junkie’. Mohammed was very cleaver in is persuasion but I could not come at 700Dh (A$120) for this piece of junk, even including the cost of the cup of over sweet tea. Anyway with lots of back and forwards and by this time we were back in the vehicle and I had started the vehicle engine and ready to drive away the price was concluded at 50Dh (A$9.00). With much kissing of Lyn’s hands in appreciation, we considered it an expensive cup of tea with a piece of junk jewellery as a bonus.

The country has changes to vast gibber plains as we head towards Todra Gorge in the High Atlas. We camped in Todra Gorge at the town of Tinerhir, at de Soeil Camp ground.

Camp 12: Todra Gorge Camp. Distance travelled: 226Kms. Total: 4192Kms.

Tuesday 11th March: Today and tomorrow we plan to do some off road tracks (pistes) between Todra Gorge and Dades Gorge crossing the High Atlas Mountains at 27,000metres. I had downloaded from the internet some brief directions from previous adventurers, and with a few local directions we headed off.

The piste followed the water course up the valley. Initially steep vertical walls on both sides, finally breaking into slightly wider valley as we climbed past 23,000 metres. The surrounding country is dry and barren, the hill people or Berbers just etching a living from herding goats and crudely growing potatoes, carrots and wheat in small isolated wet patches of the river valley. Finally the piste winds its way out of the valley up a snaked road cut into the mountain side onto the high plateau at the mountain pass of Tzi Tierherouzine at 2.7Km high.

Women are walking along the road carrying huge piles of sticks and the local bushes for the fire back home. We can not see any timber so consider they must travel quite some distance with this heavy load carried on much arched backs. At the village of Agoudal we had lunch at the local café. The Bruchette or shashlik as we know it and salad was good washed down with that sweet tea.

Leaving town we headed higher into the mountains on a much smaller piste. At 27,000 metres snow blocked the road. It had turned to ice, and below was soft clay, added to that the side slope angled the wrong direction towards the steep drop off way below. I do not need adventure like this. So we returned to the 27,000metre mountain pass at Tizi Teiherouzine, and camped the night alone and high in the snow covered Atlas.

Camp 13: 27,000metre Camp. Distance travelled: 126Kms. Total: 4318Kms.

Tuesday 12-13th March: Well we thought we would be alone, at 8.30pm that night however 3 Berber men approached the vehicle and called out “Want to buy hashish?” Following my decline “Do you have Bom Bom?” I thought this meant smokes, but we learn later in the day that it means lollies. They left us in peace to enjoy out mountain top camp in seclusion.

We could not find the other road across the top of the mountains to Dade’s Gorge so retraced our steps down Toda Gorge and then the main road to Dade’s. It was market day at Boumaine so wandered around the markets and purchased our eggs, and a few dates. We also spot a seller of colourful spices; coffee, ginger, tamarind, cumin, nutmeg, cinnamon, and curry.

Dade’s Gorge is just as spectacular, the valley floor is green with new wheat, and trees are either flowering pink almonds or figs about to break bud. At the end of the gorge the road snakes itself back and forth up a near vertical incline. At the top we turn round and camp in the valley village. We are now resigned to camp ground accommodation as the norm.

This morning we watch the women cut both local grass on the road verge and field grown grasses for drying as winter feed. The young boys carry manure on donkey back to fertilise the fields. All very slow intensive work.

Heading to Ouarzazate, we stop for lunch and shared cooked pigeon, chips and salad. Very tasty. We have now left the Atlas Mountains and now travelling over vast rolling gibber plains heading south east. Still villages manage to edge a living from this arid area.

From Ouerzazate, we turn east in the direction of the Sahara Desert again and follow the Draa River Valley. This valley is known as “The valley of a 1,000 Kasbahs”. As we descend from the dry strataed plateau we can see the meandering river valley and the green date palms stretch off into the distance.

Tonight we are camped amongst the palms in the valley. Our pre-dinner drinks accompanies by olives, dates, and some French cheese.

Camp 15: Date Palm Camp. Distance travelled: 176 + 223Kms. Total: 4717Kms.



Tuesday 14th March: Our day started with a two hour tour of the old Ksour or fortified stronghold, and its associated Kasbar at Tamnougalt. Built around 400AD, for a mud construction if has withstood time well.

All day we followed the Draa River valley and its date palm filled valley towards the desert. As we reached the more modern town of Zagora the air began to fill with dust blown up from the winds over the Sahara. The river has cut its way down from the plateau, but we must follow the snake road around and down the mountain edges until finally we pass out onto a dust filled plain. We know that 18Kms before the end of the road at the town of M’Hamid that there is a piste that leads out into the Sahara dune field. We find a track and guestimate that it is the correct one. We have no GPS readings for the dunes but know that from ‘Lonely Planet’ they are approx 50Kms east of M’Hamid.

We let the tyres down to 28psi and happily travel along. It is lateish in the afternoon so we cross-country to some dunes to the south and call camp. With deck chairs in hand, drinks and nibblies, we climb the dunes and watch the sun set. It is a shame that the air is so filled with dust; it does not make photography conducive.

Camp 16: Dune Camp. Distance travelled: 235Kms. Total: 4952 Kms.

Tuesday 15th March: The wind had settled over night and hence the air much clearer today. We are still in the now dry Draa River Valley but it has now spread out over a 20 kilometre wide valley, bounded by the hills of our far right (North) and the small sized dune field to our left (South). Hence my plan was to find the big 300metre high dunes we just drive west for 50K’s, keeping the dune field in site on my left as we tracked down the valley.

We crossed gibber plains, and sandy river valleys, often we had to skirt smaller dune fields, but occasionally we had to punch through them. At 45K’s from the turn off we arrive at Erg Chigaga Morocco’s largest dunes at 310metres.

There are a few scattered tents catering for the more adventurous camel trekkers. (3 days by camel out from M’Hamid) From one of these tents, three men wave us down; reluctant at first, we accept their offer of tea. It is around mid day and that sand storm was brewing again. Visibility was down to 50 metres and the sand blowing off the tops of the dunes, and really impossible to go outside. We pleasantly accept their invitation to join them for lunch. The local speciality is tajine, (like a hot pot), but because they have no refrigeration it is all vegetables.

All afternoon the wind blows, Lyn is reading her ‘Who’ magazine and the three guys take an interest. Each reads it from cover to cover, well looks at the pictures anyway, and Lyn explains the stories. Lhsan (Lassin) has discovered the sudoku and is intent on completing the puzzle. Eventually we must tear out the page so he can continue.
The head man is Mbark, is brother runs the office in M’Hamid organising the camel trekkers to here, where Mback looks after them well. I am keen to move on but Mback insists we stay for dinner of Couscous. These guys are really genuine so we accept.

It is only 3pm, so Mback suggests he leads us to the top of the biggest dune. It is quite a climb but rewarding. The view to the south of this dune overlooks one of the stages of the Paris-Dakar event.

Preparation of a couscous dinner is a 3 hour event, no 3 minute couscous here. Hence we spend this time comfortably in their rudimentary but adequate kitchen watching he preparation as we chat. Lhsan is still hard at work trying to solve the sudoku. Now his two friends are trying to help and that really confuses the issue. Finally there are so many options on the original piece of paper that the initial numbers have to be copied again and again on to new bits of paper.

The soup, followed by couscous and vegetables was great. This was followed by some singing by Mback, his friend Mohammed, and Lhsan on native drums.

Lyn and I were truly impressed with these guys. Friendly, well spoken, and very genuine.
They can be contacted at http://www.caravanerenard.com/ or caravanerenard@yahoo.fr

The air is now cool and clear, and we camp where the truck is parked out side the camel rug clad desert tents.

Camp 17: Desert Fox Caravan Camp. Distance travelled: 81Kms. Total: 5034Kms.

Tuesday 16th March: This morning the air is clear again. Mback suggested yesterday that we could follow the valley another 80Kms to the outpost of Fourm Zguid, then head north on the road and pick up our planned trip. We agree this sounded great.

As we leave the sudoku puzzle is still unsolved.

For 30kms we follow a very soft sandy track along the edge of the dunes. The Canter handles it well and we float over one small dune after another following beside what is left of the mighty Draa River. Finally we are on the remnants of a vast dry lake. Mback said the last time this had water was in 1945. A flat plain with nothing in every direction, except for that water mirage at the edge of the every horizon.

Our rout had taken us along a path within 40Kms and parallel to the Algerian border, so it was not surprising that eventually we would be stopped at a military outpost and a scant check of our documents. It was then a very rough stony track into Fourm Zguid where we lunched beside the bitumen road that would take us all the way back to Ouarzazate on the edge of the High Atlas again.

We are camped at the UNESCO world heritage site of Benhaddou, apparently the most exotic and best preserved Kasbar in the Atlas region. That will be tomorrow’s discovery!
Camp 18: Benhaddou Kasbar Camp. Distance travelled: 258Kms. Total: 5292Kms.

Morocco Part 1

Thursday 6th March 2008: We were awoken at 6am this morning from our car park sleep with the prayer calling from the 20 or so mosques in the immediate vicinity. Now we know we are in Morocco.
The streets were busy yesterday evening, but this morning they are quite up until 10am. We indulged in some very strong, but good local coffee and some very sweet but tasty cakes waiting for the internet to open. My memory stick decided not to work so it was a challenge to find a new one. The locals are very friendly and are keen to help. And with that help we found upstairs room selling computer stuff and our 1GB stick for less than A$20, and of course, plus the 7 Dirhams (A$1.20) tip for the friendly help.
We left own around midday and followed a valley into the Riff Mountains and to the town of Chefchaouen. The town is wedged onto the side of the mountains, the small streets steep but the surrounding views picturesque. We parked the truck and walked up and down the busy streets which were cluttered with vendors selling the local produce: oranges, lots of good looking greens and vegies, eggs, live chickens, and fresh meat. Intermingled are myriads of second hand shoes and clothes, then the hardware requirements for local farmers.
Now on the other side of the Riff Mountains we are camped near the old Roman ruins of Volubilis. Having two hours as the sun set was a perfect time to explore. Typical Roman columns and paved streets, waterfalls, and fast courtyards, this must have been impressive in its time. Atop two of the largest columns were two stalk nests, the young chicks attended to by both parents.
We disobeyed our own rule in trying to find a camp site before sunset, and finished paying a local 15Dh (A$2 and a bit) to camp beside his ‘shop’ Well more a bench with some rock displayed that he is trying to sell. I guess we will have to look at this tomorrow morning before we are allowed to leave!
Camp No 8: Roman Ruins Camp. Distance Travelled: 269Kms Total: 3260Kms

Friday 7th March: As we arose at 7am this morning out new found friend was eagerly awaiting for us to alight from the vehicle. Well, he had to wait until we had had our first cup of coffee. Now that we were ready to move he ran over with a bag of rocks, hat turned out to be lumps of calcite, not very exciting, but he wanted to swap these for some clothes. Well at least that is what we concluded. As I tried to give the rocks back, he refused, only running away and returning with two crudely made clay cooking stands. I really did not have a shirt that I had to give away, so we settled on 4 biros, a smile, a firm hand shake, and for Lyn, a cuddle and a kiss!
As we drove, only 2 kilometres past where we turned around last night was a camping ground. But we do have a bag of useless rocks to remember the evening.
Arriving at Meknes, we parked the truck, and headed off into the medina. This is the old walled part of the city. Mud houses packed tightly together, streets or lanes so narrow some of them you can touch both sides with outstretched arms. They were like a maze. More than once we were lost, it was only the inbuilt GPS that saved us. Past shoe and clothing stalls, mattress stuffers, and bed makers, we found the fresh food markets, and from different stalls we purchased our supplies.
Heading deep into the east of Morocco we started to climb the Atlas Mountains. At 2,500metres we could see the spectacular snow capped High Atlas in the distance.
Descending back into the valley, we are camped at Timnay, with a group of French campervans, and with those snow capped mountains as a backdrop.
Camp No 9: French Tourist Camp. Distance Travelled: 263Kms. Total: 3460Kms

Saturday 8th March: Couple of small problems to start the day with, firstly he computer has started to again split its pages into 5 horizontal pages, making downloading of our photographs impossible, although I have a work around for ‘word’. Secondly we are constantly running out of small change. The ATM’s are plentiful, but we get 200Dh notes and they are too big for the vendors.
The area we are driving through is like the Grand Canyon. The Ziz River has cut a huge canyon through surrounding sedimentary layers, and we follow the river for 200Kms all the way into the Sahara Desert where it eventually disappears. The surrounding country is a palaeontologist’s paradise; beside the road are sellers of fossils. I check out a few, but am pleased we did not buy anything until we reached south of Erfoud. At the Museum of Fossils I acquired a very nice Trilobite and a 10cm Dinosaur tooth for 150Dh each (about A$20).
Beside the river are date palms and typical square mud brick houses. Along the road the locals use donkeys as the means of transport, both for themselves and their produce. The men are dressed in jellaba the traditional robes, and the women like wise attired. If it was not for the satellite dishes on the house rooves, the scene would be just out of a religious story
Eventually the mountains disappear, and the ground gives way to a flat gibber plain. In the distance appear the huge Sahara Sand Dunes of Erg Chebbi.
It is beside these dunes we are camped tonight, in a tourist camp. Dinner was a traditional Moroccan mince dish, with lots of fresh salad.
Camp No 10: Sahara Desert Camp. Distance Travelled: 313Kms Total: 3774Kms

Sunday 9th March: We started today with the obligatory sunrise camel trek up the dunes. It was still dark at 5.45am when we rose to a chilly morning. For about an hour we slowly climbed the big dunes. We both commented on the fact that we were pleased it was only for an hour and not an all day trip. The single humped camel is not at all comfortable on the pelvis. Sitting on the dues top we watched the sun rise over the Algerian mountains to a give a hazy mist over the valley, unfortunately it was not concussive to photography.
Our destination was the furtherest point that Morocco stretched into the Sahara and on the very edge of Algeria. Tarouz was the small village where the road ends, and has nothing to offer other than the locals indicating to turn around. I had other plans; the maps show a dotted line up the other side of the valley that would return us about 50Kms from whence we started. It was a rough sandy track, or piste in Moroccan. We think we are isolated but at three junctions where we are thinking which way to go, miraculously a local appears on a small motor bike happy to help with directions…for a few Dirhams of course.
The locals are very friendly, especially the young ones, always waving at the road side. But we are getting a bit annoyed at the constant haggling for money. If you stop on the side of the road to take a photograph someone is always running to you to offer tours, camel rides, camping, or just to charge you parking fees.
Finally we are moving in the correct GPS direction, unaided by willing helpers. Travelling over vast gibber plains and folded sedimentary ridges, we discover a valley where the rocks are rich with fossils. Ammonites, and other shell fish are in a continuous line of strata. Naturally this line has been dug over to supply all those tourist shops we see on the road side. It was however nice to add a couple of self found pieces to our collection of fossils.
Our plan was to free camp next to the big red Sahara dunes, but every place we thought was looking promising already had a series of mud houses or a tourist camp. It is hard to find a quiet spot even in the Sahara Desert. We forget that a country that has been inhabited for thousands of years has every good spot already spoken for. Finally after numerous attempts we settle for a small valley overlooking the dunes. We are about 12kms off the road, but even here vehicles drive by, and even the odd tourist train of camels out for a sunset ride appear over the rise. Finally after sunset, all is quiet.
Camp 11: Hard to find Isolation Camp.
Distance travelled: 191Kms. Total: 3965Kms.

GoannaTracks South to Morocco

UK, France, Andorra, Spain, Ceuta (the Spanish enclave in Nth Africa).


Tuesday 26th –Thursday 28th February 2008: We arrived in London after a long 36 hours of travelling, and then jumped on a 3 hour train trip to Devon where our truck is stored. It is now 8.30 in the evening and was kindly met by Simon Buck of Devon 4x4. Simon had been storing our vehicle since our arrival from our Russian expedition in October 07.

Our plan is to head south to Morocco for 4 weeks of touring. Morocco was chosen for two reasons, firstly, we like the idea of the vast open spaces and the proximity to the great Sahara Desert, and secondly we plan to compete in the Morocco Outback Challenge in out competition vehicle in 2009, so this gives us the opportunity to check out the region. Besides, a road tour of the museums and churches of Europe does not appeal.

It only took 5 hours to prep the vehicle before we said our goodbyes to Devon and headed out to Poole for our overnight passage to Cherbourg in France. Our only negative was that a lot of items stored in the vehicle had gone mouldy with the wet English weather. In Poole we found a laundromat, or as they call it locally a laundrette and that rectified most of the mould.

Once in France I was surprised how quickly I fell into the system of driving on the wrong side of the road. One of our first needs was to restock our larder for our travels so it w
as into a French supermarket. French wine, real Champagne, pâté, and cheeses were not on the list but I could not resist.

South of Rennes we exited the freeway and visited the small coastal sea port of Granville and then the UNESCO World Heritage site of Le Mont St-Michel. This is a magnificent old abbey set on an island rock just off the coast.

We had originally planned to travel further south, but jet lag and lack of sleep was catching up. We headed to what we thought looked like a quiet coastal town of St Nazaire but it turned out to be a large industrial port. In such a large town it was difficult to find a quiet isolated spot to set camp and all the ‘camping’ grounds we saw were closed because it was no longer summer. Finally we found a camp ground open. The young lady could only speak French and wrote down the price on the booking form. Euro42 seemed extremely expensive, but with 10 hours sleep in he last 3 days, I had just enough left in me to ask ‘why so expensive?” By this time the owners wife had arrived and said “Why do you think the price of 12 Euro it is expensive?” Then I had to explain and apologise to the young lady because I had misread her European writing of 12 as 42. That night we slept for 10hours!

Camp 1 – Wrong Price Camp, St Nazaire. Distance Travelled: 664Kms

Friday 29th February: We have been driving past towns with household names. In the UK it was Axminster (carpets), and then in France, it was Chateaubriand (steak), Bordeaux, Cognac, and Cadillac. Our destination was Toulouse where we had pre-booked a tour of the Airbus A380 assembly plant. We turned of the autobahn about 20kms from Toulouse to find a camp site and a restaurant. Lyn had had enough of highway food and wanted anything but pizza. As luck would have it, the only place we found was a pizza restaurant.

Camp was in the middle of the provincial town Grenade at a designated site for motor homes. Very noisy but OK.

Camp 2 – Grenade Town Camp. Distance Travelled: 649Kms. Total: 1313Kms

Saturday 1st March: Our morning walk around town rewarded us with market day. We had to indulge in more pâté, fresh salad items, and a typical French breakfast of coffee and croissants.

The Airbus tour was great. From manufacturing plants all over Europe the final assembly is done here in Toulouse. For a mere Euro 220 to 275 Million you too can have one. Just keep in mind that if you want more than one, they will offer a discount for quantity!! To date 189 have been sold, including to Qantas, 50 to Emirates, and one privately.

After getting lost exiting Toulouse we are now camped halfway up the Pyrenees Mountains separating France from Spain. A very idilic commercial camp set in the valley of steep mountains. We can see snow in the distance!

Camp 3 – Pyrenees Mountain Camp. Distance Travelled: 156Kms. Total: 1469Kms

Sunday 2nd March: It was a lazy start to today, about midday before we got on the road, but it was Sunday so that was OK….and it was a cold 6’C. There actually was another reason. The Pyrenees Mountains are dotted with caves that show signs of pre-ice age habitation, and we have pre-arranged a 2.30pm tour of one of the largest. The Grotto de Niaux was a ceremonial cave, and 1200metres into the cave was a large cavity, there on the walls were etchings of Bison, Ibex, and horses done in black charcoal. These etchings were 15,000 years old! This is real history.

The afternoons drive was up an impressive snaking road to 2,500metres and the country of Andorra. The snow cover increased as we drove. Finally as we crossed the border and into the town of Pas de La Casa, the snow fields surrounded the town, with ski lifts and slopes everywhere. Andorra is a duty free country and the streets are busy with traffic and shoppers. For us the greatest benefit was that fuel was 30% cheaper than France.

Dinner was at a sidewalk café with perhaps too much sangria, and our camp was amongst perhaps 50 other European motor homes in the Pas de La Casa car park.

Camp 4: Pas de La Casa Car Park Camp.
Distance Travelled:75Kms Total: 1544Kms


Monday 3rdMarch:C Leaving camp we took the more indirect route to the capital of Andorra de Vella. Winding up and down the steep mountains, often the road twisted above and below us as it twisted down near vertical slopes. The snow was up to half a metre deep on the side of the road. Soon we crossed the border into Spain. Customs only giving a quick look into the camper and asking about the quantity of cigarettes and liqueur.

As we wound our way down from the Pyrenees the country dried out. Olive trees and what we think are peach trees dominate the fields beside the road. We decided to free camp tonight, but in a country that has been populated for thousands of years there is not an inch of free ground. Every side road leads to a house; off the main freeways olive trees are right to the road verge. By 7.30pm we are looking for ever smaller roads, and take the exit to the town of Xatia. Within that town we get lost and finish up driving up increasingly narrower streets, until finally we clip the door awning of one house with the side mirror of the truck. This excites a very old man who rattles lots and lots in Spanish. We frequent the ‘sorry’ word as we back off is house trying not to run over his motorbike. We are at this time really craving for the open spaces of Australia, I would even settle for the treeless plains of Mongolia, or the steppes of Russia. I am so pleased the vehicle is only 2metres wide as we finally exit the tight streets.

Finally we are out of town and at 8.30pm find a side road to set camp, but only before we disturb a couple practicing the Karma sutra in the front seat of a small compact.

Dinner was an extra strong rum for me and a vodka for Lyn, followed by some French cheese on bread.

Camp No 5: Lovers Lane Camp. Distance Travelled: 608Kms Total: 2152Kms

Tuesday 4th March: Today we follow the E15 or AP7 down the coast through the provinces of Valencia, Andalusia, and Malaga. The country is generally dry and stony, with vast sedimentary layered deposits making up all the topography. In the north endless fields of oranges, and as we head south the agriculture is under thousands of acres of plastic. In these green houses tomatoes are the main crop, and there must be millions of tones grown in this region.

Dotted along the coast are some beautiful typical Spanish houses, and in the built up areas huge complexes of tourist condominiums. I fail to comprehend the ‘investment’ in such mega structures. The air is constant smog, and the horizon indistinguishable from the sky to the sea. There are no quiet spots along this Mediterranean Coast.

South of Malaga, is a continuous line of hotels, apartments and condominiums. We manage to find by good luck and not by good management a camping ground on the main road. Although busy it is welcome, and with a long shower, and a bottle of that French Champagne all is good. For tomorrow we board the ship for Africa!

Camp No 6: Mediterranean Seaside Camp.
Distance Travelled: 625Kms Total: 2778Kms


Wednesday 5th March: Today the prices of the condominiums have risen, because we have blue sky, and I can see the horizon. The reason is because we now have a strong cold wind that has blown all that smog away.

We follow the Mediterranean Coast all the way south until we can see the Rock of Gibraltar. As we head south the condos, and the houses become grander. Strangely, purple is the colour of choice for the most expensive.

At the Spanish port of Algeciras, we find our way to the high speed ferry loading point. We are about an hour and a half too early and the locals are already profiteering from us by charging €11 for parking the vehicle in the line up. It is not really a ferry, more of a super large high speed catamaran that carried cars, trucks and 800 passengers. The crossing takes only 45 minutes and we are in the continent of Africa.

Arriving in the Spanish enclave of Ceuta, we immediately set about to do 4 things. Purchase a Morocco map (impossible), find an internet Café (no can do), buy an ipod because it is a duty free port and ours is broken (very little selection available, so no go) and fill up with cheap diesel – Yes we achieved this. At €.90/Lt compared to Spain at €1.30 and France €1.50 (A$2.50). Fortunately our full tank from Andorra lasted the 1500Kms to here.

It took a little time to locate the border crossing to Morocco, and about one hour to complete the formalities. Our biggest problem is that we still do not have the 3rd party Green Card. I tried for weeks to get one in the UK on the internet. I also tried personal contacts in France, and the original Green Card supplier in Latvia. All unsuccessfully. We need one for Morocco, but the sales office at the border has closed down. An ‘official’ tourist guide helped us through the paper trail and cleared it with the border chief. He then accompanied us in the truck for some 35 minutes to the town of Tetouan to buy insurance. At the insurance office they explained they do not sell Green Card insurance. So not sure where to from here. The ‘guide’ said the papers we have are OK, but I am not so sure. Watch this space>>>

We are now camped in the car park in the centre of Tetouan. Walked through the medina, (the old markets of the town inside the walled city), spent 20minites saying NO, we do not want to buy carpets, and just had a great meal of soup, and meat & salads in a local very busy market shop.

We did however have another win…we purchased a Morocco road map

Camp No7: Tetouan Carpark Camp. Distance Travelled:150Kms Total: