Mongolia 4 - North Hovsgol Lake & Boorog Desert

Thursday 23rd August: Last night, the temperature continued to drop to a very cold and windy 5 degrees. It is still raining and low cloud obscured any views of the mountains surrounding the lake. Occasionally the sun would break through and show us the light dusting of snow on the hills not so far from where we are camped. No point staying here, so after studying the maps we think we can short cut our way north to Moron about 200Kms. It is over the mountains, so driving in the wet and cold conditions would be great.
The tracks were in places slippery and some deep (about 1 metre) water crossings; however the views as we drive up and down the vast Granite mountains are specular. Some of the Granite boulders are balancing, but most are so large, they are the whole mountain - just one vast domed rock. At one pass we are at 2,350metres and a light snow is evident on the side of the road. The heater is on maximum in the cab.

Driving lush green valleys, you look up to the mountains capped with snow, pine trees about half way down, and the valley floor filled with grazing horses. The scene strongly reminds us of the Neanderthaloid images created in the book ‘Valley of the Horses’, a part of the ‘Clan of the Cave Bear’ series. When on top of the mountains it is ‘Sound of Music’ country. Hard to believe it is Mongolia after the vast deserts and open plains of the south.

The weather is kinder to us now and we make an early 3.30 stop in the place of an old ger camp site. It is beside a small creek and there are the remains of the circular ger pattern on the grass and some scattered timber for our fire. Tonight is lamb roast night so we need a couple of hours cooking time. Whilst the camp oven is on, and we are tinkering with the trucks we have a couple of local visitors who come and sit and watch what these strange foreigners are doing. After about an hour or so, their curiosity satisfied they move to check on their stock.

The Lamb Roast is beautiful.


Friday 24th August: Six degrees this morning but with no wind it is not really cold. Reaching the town of Moron, it is different again to others we have seen before; perhaps more frontier. Timber buildings like we saw in northern Russia and many of the locals in traditional attire, some riding horses through town. A real mixture of old and new. We really enjoyed the lamb roast so off the markets. A two kilo leg of lamb 6,400T (A$6.40) and two and half kilo of beautiful rump steak 7,000T (A$7.00) plus some potatoes onions etc we are set to go.

The road north to Hovsgol Lake was typically a mix bag of good road, tracks, and trails. We decided on the western shore and coming over the pass ahead of us was the most beautiful area in Mongolia. It is what I had imagined Lake Baikal would be like, but this is very special. Pine trees coming down from the bare 3,000metre slopes to a grass and pine tree lined blue lake. Not just blue but rich blue like the most tropical waters of a coral reef, and crystal clear. It is the clearest lake water I have ever seen.

We parked the vehicles on a small escarpment above the waters edge. As the sun goes down, the moon come up, and the storm clouds on the eastern horizon give off a great sunset display. We will stay here a couple of days.

The steaks were cut thick, about 30mm, and although a little tough tasted really good.


Saturday/Sunday 25/26th August: Two very relaxing days. The first, I guess we had trouble winding down from being always on the move. As Lyn washed everything in site – clothes, bed sheets, and even the truck, I went over the vehicle from front to rear tightening every nut and bolt. Even managed to finally get the squeak from the windscreen wipers fixed and the Ipod working again. Both couples seem not to stop doing something, but we were happy that we had the chance to tidy up and catch up on repairs etc.

We had been visited during the day by the woman from the local ger camp, she had bought over some yak’s milk to say thank you for the kangaroo gift we had given her son earlier. That evening we follow up her invitation to see her milk the yaks. We also tasted yak meat, which is not so different to cow, and sampled some yak yogurt, which I liked very much.

For dinner we cooked in the camp oven, the frozen chicken we had been carrying since Russia. I stuffed it with apple, bread, onion, and any spices I could lay my hands on. With baked potatoes, onions and carrots, it was a feast.
Sunday, was Gays birthday, and a do nothing day other than eat, drink and relax. The weather had unfortunately turned windy and hence was really cold at the shore line; hence we backed the vehicles up into the tree line some 100 metres back and in the lea of the pine trees enjoyed a much better climate. Really the day just drifted slowly by.

Finally in the afternoon we enjoyed a bottle of Chilean Red wine, purchased in Russia, and drunk in Mongolia – how very cosmopolitan. This we had with some fruit cake from home that Lyn had decorated with local flowers in honour of Gay’s special day.

It was lamb roast, again! As the roast was cooking, we were joined by a young man who could not talk – but he certainly could smell that leg cooking. He had been collecting wild onions and offered some for the pot, then collected some more wood for the fire, and water for the camp. Naturally he had to stay for dinner. After a second helping he happily departed on his push bike with a smile and a wave.


Camp 58-60: Hovsgol Lake Camp

Highlights: “Valley of the Horses” and “The Hills are alive with the etc.” country, Lamb Roast, Mongolia’s most beautiful spot – Hovsgol lake,
Total Distance to Date: 13,521 Kilometres

Monday 27th August: After leaving Hovsgol Lake and resupplying at Moron we start our journey west. 25Kms out of Moron is the world’s best Deer Stone site. These one to two metre vertical stones date back to Bronze Age man. Most still have the syllabized deer carving on them and carvings of knives belts, fish hooks, hammered into the granite stone. This area has a collection of nine deer stones plus other piles of rocks in circular or square patterns. We have often seen these concentric circles of rocks all over Mongolia. Apparently the round ones are burial places for animals, particularly the owner’s favourite horse, and the square ones are human burial sites. These all date back to around 500B.C.

We were rather pleased with ourselves for also finding another deer stone some 100Kms further on in our travels. Apparently they are scattered all over western Mongolia and southern Russia.

Tonight we camped well off the track, high up on the edge of the timber line. Most of the valleys are devoid of any trees and it is increasingly hard to have a fire to cook on. Fortunately most of the slopes of the mountains are gentle and allow access up the tree lined ridge. These types of camp sites also allow us great views of the valley spread out before us.


Tuesday 28th August: We reached Tsetserleg around 1pm, it was here that a child died about 3 weeks ago and the road had been recently been closed for fear of a plague outbreak. The bubonic plague or Black Death of medieval Europe initiated from this part of Mongolia. It is transferred from handling marmot skins. A marmot is a local type of ground squirrel which they eat. We decided not to have our lunch in Tsetserleg!

Many times the tracks split and it becomes less obvious which one to take; many decisions are based on both the GPS arrow, the lay of the land, and which is the most used track. Not always does this work out. Many times the well used track becomes nothing more than one old wheel rut in the dust, some times not even that and we just follow that GPS arrow. This afternoon was no exception as we follow very old wheel ruts up and down hills. Finally passing a ger on the edge of the river, I hesitated and decided to ask directions. The middle aged gentleman was only happy too confirm we were on the correct track, but also invited us all in for chai (tea).

This was our first true invitation into a family ger. The six family members; husband, wife, two daughters and two sons live in the one room ger. It is kitchen, lounge, prayer room and bedroom for all. The floor was covered with lino and some scattered carpets. In the centre of the ger was the fire place with a big pot of molten sheep’s fat bubbling away.

The lady of the house was cooking pastries in the fat. The elder daughter was rolling the flour mixture, whilst the others looked on. In the room were also 4 other friends or related family members what had dropped in to visit
On the walls on one side of the entrance hung two full carcases of the recent killed sheep and goat; they did neither smell nor where there any flies. As you scanned the walls, actually the lattice supporting the circular ger, it was also the place to store all their possessions; two, at least 1st World War, very used, bolt action rifles, coats, hats, cooking utensils, and drying skins. At the northern end (the entrance always faces south) was the small orange alter. Around the floor edge was bags of flour, more cooking pots, and their bed rolls. By the time the four of us entered the ger the fourteen of us made it very crowded but homely.

The husband immediately offers us chai. Hot, very milky, and slightly salty, we accept it gratefully with both hands, the Mongolian symbol for thank you. I spread our map of Mongolia on the floor and explain where we have travelled from and are going to. The only words of English they know is ‘thank-you’. As the wife continues to cook the pastries, we are offered a bowl of delicacies – Sheep’s liver, sheep’s heart, and sheep’s intestine stuffed with fat and meat of some kind.

The dark red and grey colour mixture is still warm from cooking. Being rude not to accept this generous offering, we all tentatively try a little. The husband thinks we are just a little too polite and cuts each of us a large chunk of intestine, which naturally we must accept and eat with a smile. Then wash it down with the milky salty tea.

The Polaroid camera was a big hit again here. The teenage daughter in typical style had to grab a comb from the lattice roof to comb her fringe. Following many inside photos and some outside around the vehicles we made a move to leave. Bill was very surprised, and I think quite worried when the husband jumped in and started his vehicle and proceeded to do a lap around the yard. But all ended well and the truck returned to its rightful owner. We parted company having had a real insight into Mongolian herding life.

That evening we camper below towering granite tors


Wednesday 29th August: Continuing west, we travelled varied terrain, rough mountain tracks, some through pine timbered country, and then open plains, then deserts. As we were 15 kilometres out of Baruunturuun a man stopped us and asked if we could take his two sons to town. The small boys of 6 and 9 approximately were standing next to him. We are surprised at the trust that still exists in this society, and wonder where it has gone in ours. We obliged and dropped the boys in town, much to their delight.

The open flat deserts around Dzuungovi are more that I imagined we would have found in the Gobi. This is the Boorog Desert, the world’s most northern desert, flat for as far as you can see to the west, east, and to the north. Waves of sand dunes and to the south a rough treeless blue mountain range hugs the horizon.

Dzuungovi, is just as forbidding. Dusty rough streets, broken shanty wooden houses, and children who had forgotten to smile. We stopped to buy a drink in the magazine, but the only drink available was the row of room temperature beer or vodka on the top shelf. One shelf had some cans of food then three shelves of lollies. I imagine the only happiness for the locals was the vodka on top for the adults and the lollies on the lower shelves for the children. Not a happy town.
The track west across the flat desert was good travelling at 50-60 KPH, so we travelled till 7.30pm. Without a tree, or depression in site we drove about 2 kilometres off the road and set camp. Nothing could be seen for miles, and then three horse men appeared from nowhere to check us out. Following the acceptance of some biscuits from us and a cup of orange juice, they left happy that we were OK and their curiosity satisfied.

Tomorrow we will head to Ulaangom the capital of the province of UVS, about 75Kms

Camp 63: Sand Dune Desert Camp

Current Position: Boorong Desert – Western Mongolia
Highlights: Deer stones, Ger visit, Crossing Boorog Desert.
Total Distance to Date: 15,700 Kilometres

Mongolia 3 - Central Mongolia

Saturday 18th August: The sun is shining this morning, but fog is slowly drifting across the plain below us and up to Black Rock Ridge. The sweeping views of the horizon and Red Bluff disappear. With breakfast over we head out across the flat plains. Today, there are camels everywhere, sometimes in herds of 50 plus at a time.

As we head north the country is again changing, now hillier granite country with outcrops of pure white quartz. We come across a broken down vehicle, the three occupants had obviously been there all the previous night. They had not eaten, so we offered biscuits and drinks all round. The fan belt had broken on the vehicle, although they had tried makeshift repairs using their trouser belts it had not worked. Our option was to give the elder of the three, dressed in traditional costume a lift to Bayankhongor, our next stop about 40Kms away. Bill & Gay had the only spare seat, and I believe it was not a very interesting trip as neither party could communicate.

Bayankhongor was a town without a soul. Built during the soviet occupation, it is straight out of the soviet town planner’s book. Half a dozen grey and brown four story apartment blocks were set either side of the single wide main street. The rest of the buildings, obviously added later, are a mixture of recycled timber and scrap sheet metal, or white rough rendered brick houses or gers. Each gers is surrounded by ramshackled timber fences, I imagine depicting ownership. Apart from the straight main street, the rest of the streets seem to happen in any order as the dwellings appeared.

Whilst I was at the internet, Lyn & Gay did the shopping in the markets with the help of a drunken local man and a mute woman. I believe it was quite an experience.

Our afternoons destination was Naiman Nuur (Eight Lakes) for which we had the GPS coordinates from ‘Lonely Planet’. It was typical of my destinations, very off the main tourist route. A single lane track up the most beautiful river valley we have ever seen. The velvet grass left both sides of the meandering stony river and covered the ground all the way to the tops of the mountain peaks on each side of us. Dotted along the valley are the white gers and granite tors. We were now at 2000metres and still climbing. Left behind long ago were the camels, they are now replaced by goats, cattle, and as we get higher, Yaks. As the evening draws near, the families are herding the live stock close to the ger to bed down.
We set camp atop of a spur overlooking the river bend. After our camel steak dinner, we had a visit by four horse riders hoping for a drink to have with their ‘roll your own’ smokes.

P.S. The camel steaks were very nice!


Sunday 19th August: Surprise, after the rain again last night the sky is blue. This only makes the valley all the more beautiful. The ger families are now driving their flocks out across the grasses. With no fences, and no land ownership in Mongolia, there must be an understanding between the families on grazing rights. All in all, it looks like an ideal lifestyle - as least in the 25degree summer. Still there are no trees only short grasses. For cooking fuel we see piles of animal manure being dried in the sun. I am thinking that must add a special flavour to the cooking!

We turn off the main valley to follow the GPS arrow up another much smaller valley. The track is almost nonexistent. On reaching the top, we expect to be mesmerised by eight beautiful lakes, however the ridge just rolls over into the next valley. On either side of the saddle we search between and over the granite outcrops looking for the impossible. We finally convince ourselves that the coordinates in ‘Lonely Planet’ must be incorrect.

Disappointed we did not find the eight lakes; we were none the less, impressed with the surroundings.
Returning to the main valley we continued, past idyllic ger settings, down picturesque valleys that photographs did not do justice to the small settlements of Uyanga, and Zuunbayan-Ulaan. Finally we reached the ‘main road’ just south of Khujirt.

Ahead of us we could see a turbulent thunderhead, and on the ground evidence that the very recent rain must have been violent. The ground was covered with fresh silt and in places thick ice from the recent hail. The major river crossing before Khujirt was 500 metres wide, running with water but fortunately shallow. What made the experience was the sun was now out and the valley crested by a new rainbow.

As we left Khujirt, we had read of some ancient burial sites marked by vertical stones. We found the site however all the graves had holes dug in and around them and I can only conclude that they were robbed of some saleable contents.

The new road was under construction, and the recent rains had filled a hole containing a road roller. Now also stuck in the same hole was a bulldozer and trying to pull that out was a grader. This was all very unsuccessful and badly disorganised. Some of the workers approached us for a drink (alcoholic of course) and my reply was only after the successfully retrieving the equipment. That obviously was not going to happen for a long time so we moved on.

We turned off the road and drove 750 metres up to the top of one of the rolling grassy hills for camp. This afforded us a grand view across the vast flood plain and the flood waters slowly moving from right to left down the valley.


Monday 20th August: This morning we visited the ancient capital of the Mogul Empire (Karakorum) dating from 1220, under the leadership of Chinggis Khaan. Unfortunately very little is left. Firstly, after only 40 years of occupancy Kublai Khaan moved the capital to what is now Beijing. What remained was later destroyed by vengeful Manchurian solders after the collapse of the Mogul Empire in 1388. Later in the 16th century what ever was left was picked up and used to build the nearby First Mongolian Buddhist Monastery of Erdene Zuu.
We had a guide for our tour of that Monastery, which in itself was impressive, but I could only marvel at the hand chipped granite blocks, pavers, steps etc that came from the previous Chinggis Khaan city. We walked outside the Monastery grounds over to the only remaining corner stone of that ancient city that was the trading crossroads of Asia.

Squatting down for a quite moment, I do believe I heard the noises of busy market and can only imagine the activity with traders from as far a field as China, Iran, and Europe. In the gravel below I can see pieces of broken pottery and wonder what stories it could tell?

In the new town of Kharkhorin we refuelled (Diesel 1050Togrog/Litre A$1.05) and had the major task of finding a water supply for the campers. As with most towns, Kharkhorin does not have a reticulated water supply and water is drawn from wells around town. For a foreigner it is difficult to know where these wells are. In the past we have seen people with containers going to and fro, hence from this it is possible to track down the small white pump house. The pump house has only a door, a small 200cm ‘window’ through which you pay your money, and a pipe out of the wall. This time after many questions and many very varying directions eventually a shop owner jumped in with me and guided us to a pump house. Both vehicles took collectively 100Litres for 3,000T (A$3.00), although not expensive we were grateful, because we normally paid around 800T (A$0.80).

Our camp tonight was 60Kms North at Ogiy Nuur (Lake). A pleasant evening and dinner of beautiful lamb steaks, purchased in the markets earlier that day.


Tuesday 21st August: We awoke at 1.30am this morning with someone trying to get into the front of the truck and then the camper. It was very windy and a cold 11degrees. I shone the torch out the window to see a very drunken Mongolian in his local attire indicating that it was cold and he wanted to come in and go to sleep. We were not impressed with his banging on the wall, but I also think he did not understand the words “piss off”! After half an hour and falling over the camper steps a couple of times, he must have eventually wandered off. It is at times like this we are so grateful to be in such a self-contained vehicle and not just camping in a tent.

It was a lousy night, and the cold and windy morning made the coffee taste just that little bit better than usual. We shared that coffee with the local park wildlife officer who came to say hello, even though we could not effectively communicate.

With a later than usual start, we planned to travel the 94 straight line kilometres to Tsetserleg for lunch. That plan soon disintegrated as we tended to zigzag all day up the wide valley. There seemed to be no major track and nothing corresponded to any of the maps we had in either the GPS or paper maps. The straight line 94Kms became 177Kms and that took a slow 7 hours to cover.

Along the way we stopped to ask directions from one ger camp, and that turned into a memorable experience for all. With a point of the hand, Tsetserleg was that way, but then the middle-aged man offered us airag. Airag is an alcoholic drink made from fermented mare’s milk, and every ger has their own still to make the home supply. With only 3% alcohol it is still most definitely must be an ‘acquired’ taste. Out of respect, Lyn and I both tried some and did manage ½ a cup each. It is a little like sour coconut milk.

Lyn then noticed one of the women milking the mare, and indicated she would like a photograph. That was no problem. We have been carrying a Polaroid camera also with us and took a photograph of ‘grandmother’ milking the horse – that was a great hit. Some 15 pictures later, we had the whole extended family around the trucks, all posing for photos. Dad in the driver’s seat, Brother (?) and children on the bull bar, kids lined up, even old grandmother was back in the action. All of the family were delighted with their photos and the colouring pencils and books we also gave out.
Finally arriving at Tsetserleg, we visited the markets for resupply. We really enjoyed our lamb last night so set about to purchase some more. Finally we differentiated the horse, cow, and yak meat from the sheep meat, and purchased a kilo of lamb for 3020T (A$3.20) plus a 2 kilo leg for 6000T (A$6.00). At some of the markets you can tell the difference because the head of the animal is on the shelf below its butchered meat. This one was a bit more challenging, using animal noises to differentiate the meats.

This evening we have found some trees, and hence some wood for an open fire. What better than lamb steaks!


Wednesday 22nd August: Up at 7.30am to an overcast sky and that drizzly rain remained with us all day. Today the tracks were quicker, or perhaps we just made better judgement calls at the multiple choice track junctions.

Stopping at a road side ‘café’ we had noodles and meat (what type is any guess) for the grand sum of 1050T (A$1.50) per very full plate. Coffee, for which we actually decided to stop for, we could buy the ‘3 in one’ prepacked mixture, but they did not have any hot water, so we gave the coffee a miss.

We passed Chuluut Gorge, an impressive river gorge cut through the mountain range. I found it most intriguing because as we climbed the range the water was flowing in the same direction of our travel. Hence the gorge on out right was increasing in depth as we moved up hill.

Our destination is the extinct volcanic area of the Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur (Lake) National Park. Driving out of the village of Tariat towards the extinct volcano we crossed recent (a million years or so) lava flow. Very evident is its flow through the saddle in between the hills, and its meandering flow down the valley. Driving over the volcanic ash slopes, to our left is the remains of the recent volcanic cone. Surrounding us are volcanic bombs, lava flows and ash beds. I have to admit I was impressed.

The 500 metre climb to the top of the cone and its circumnavigation was a highlight. The only unfortunate part of this whole experience is the weather. It continues to be overcast and raining.

We are now camped on the side of a lake formed by the lava flow damming the river. It continues to rain and the temperature is dropping. At 5.30pm it was 12degrees, 6.30pm-11degreesC, now at 8.30pm a cold 9degreesC and still dropping!

I can only add that it is good snuggling weather!

Camp 56: Rainy and Cold Volcanic Lake Camp

Current Position: Camped at Terkhiin Tsagaan Lake – Raining & 11degrees C
Highlights: Beautiful Valleys, Chinggis Khaan’s Capital, Tasting Airag, Lava flows and great extinct Volcanos.
Total Distance to Date: 13,147Kilometres

Mongolia 2 - The Gobi Desert

Tuesday 14th August: We had some restocking to do, and as there is no ‘supermarket’ in Dalanzadgad, we food shopped in the markets. We had always tried to buy our fresh vegetables in markets, but the butcher shop was a whole new adventure. We were lucky because the meat delivery vehicle had just arrived. The old motorbike had a sidecar attached and upon this were the four freshly butchered carcases. It seemed that everybody gave a hand to carry them inside and place on the large scales in the centre of the hall. Then the individual stall holders sliced off what they had pre-ordered and paid the ‘wholesaler’. On the side of the hall were all these individual butcher merchants with their cuts of meat proudly displayed on one long table. Our only problem was that we could not tell the difference between the sheep, the cow, the camel, or goat, or what ever else was available. We spied a nice piece of meat and asked if it was lamb. Naturally we could not speak Mongolese nor do they English, so Lyn did the Baa-Baa thing. The two old ladies laughed and placed two lumps of fat side by side on the table to indicate it was camel. We still decided it still looked good and purchased the one and a half Kilo for 6,000 Togrog (A$6.00).

Bill got is beer (6 x 1.5 litre plastic bottles) for 9,000 Togrog (A$9), I chased up the local delicacy –‘tarag’ or yogurt, a large jar for 2,000 Togrog (A$2), and the only thing we could not find was butter.

With the chores all done we headed out the 45Kms to Yolyn Am Gorge. It was supposed to be an ice filled gorge, but his year’s summer proved too hot, and despite walking more than 4kms down the gorge we found no ice. Watching the surrounding near vertical cliffs however eventually rewarded us with a sighting of two Ibex.
After 6 weeks of travelling we had decided to shout ourselves a bit of luxury. The Three Camels Lodge Ger Camp came well recommended as setting the bar for accommodation in Mongolia. Situated on the vast grassy plains with a small rock outcrop as a background, the central old style timber building was surrounded by 20 or so white ger tents. We were met by the friendly staff and shown to our accommodation. Each ger had a large king size bed, wash basin, toilet, and coal heater for winter. The inside walls, roof beams and all the furniture were brightly painted in typical orange and pink colours.

The accommodation tariff included 3 meals so it was an easy decision to not leave until after lunch tomorrow, particularly so as the 4 course dinner was delicious.


Wednesday 15th August: After a long breakfast it became a relaxing morning, if only to prepare us for lunch. We watched a video about Roy Andrews, an American adventurer who in the early 1920’s discovered the worlds largest Dinosaur fossil reserve including the first ever Dinosaur eggs. This was only 25Kms north and was to be our next stop. It would seem that Roy was quite a real-life adventurer, fighting rebels, bandits, and hunting fossils in the midst of a revolution. It is widely regarded that he is the basis of the Indiana Jones character.

The ‘Flaming Red Cliffs’ of Bayanzag are amazing and with only a few steps you start to see fossil bones everywhere. We saw some incredible specimens in the Museum in Ulaanbaatar, but to actually see teeth and bones in mother earth – I was captivated.

We parked the vehicles at the base of the cliffs to camp, and immediately walked around finding bones and teeth in the soft red sand cliff face. Even after dinner I could not resist scratching at the surface only to be rewarded with a large specimen of pelvis (?) bone. After exposing about 40 cm it was so fragile I had to very reluctantly leave it alone.


Thursday 16th August: Today we are off to the ‘Singing dunes’ of Khongoryn Els. The Gobi Desert is not as I expected – waves of dunes for thousands of kilometres. Only in this area are the dunes as one would imagine. Here for 100Kms long and 10Kms wide are they nothing less than spectacular. Reaching a height of 300metres above the stony plain, they beg to be climbed. The slope was 45 degrees of soft moving sand, and Bill & I achieved the top, with Lyn reaching 2/3rds of the way. It was very hard work, but we were rewarded with a great view along the sand ridge line.

Our planned decent was not as fast as we wanted as we had carried two car floor mats to the top to slide down on, but they were too slow. However, as we moved the noise of the moving sand in front of us was like the low roar of an aircraft engine.

The afternoon’s adventure was to be a 125Kms navigation run across the centre of the Gobi Desert to pick up vehicle tracks further north.

Leaving the sand dunes behind, we headed out on to the open stony rolling plains. Starting out on faint tracks these slowly diminished until we were following only the GPS directional arrow. The last faint track finished at an ancient well, the sides of the well were lined with twisted local timber and the beautiful stock enclosure again made of twisted, dry desert timber.
We elected to follow a sandy creek bed for 20Kms until the creek became too narrow for the vehicles, it was then across very rough dry ‘salt bush’ country for 10Kms until we reached relative smooth stony firm ground again. The firm ground was welcome as the sky was now overcast and only a sprinkle on the low salt bush country would have meant a quagmire. The last 12Kms took us over 1 1/2 hours; hence on reaching the comfort of the stony foot hills we called camp.

For the first time in a week fire wood was relatively plentiful at our Gobi Desert Camp.


Friday 17th August: It rained and blew last night. The wind so strong at 2am we woke with the shaking of the truck. This morning the rain has ceased to a light drizzle but the desert tracks are now wet and travel will be ‘interesting’. Fortunately we are out of the low country and crossing now low stony hills. Very picturesque, but the colours subdued in the bleak weather.
The sand and rocky country is good travelling but in between in the low clay areas the ground is either slippery with sloppy mud, or tacky with sticky mud.

Our destination today is a crystal lined cave that was inhabited over 700,000 years ago. The GPS leads us up yet another long and 500 metre wide stony creek bed between jagged peaks. Strangely these wide rivers are cut through mountain ranges and connect the broad plains on both sides. Hence, instead of climbing up and expecting to reach the river headwaters, the river opens up again into wide open rolling country.

Following some directions from a local ger camp we arrive at a small steep sided gorge. We leave the vehicles and walk the 300 metres up to the opening in side of the rocks. A large cave is actually a gas cavity formed when the rocks were molten, and is lined with Calcite and Quartz crystals. The ceiling has a good overhang and a light hole; the smoke stains indicate long use.

Unfortunately more recent visitors have not appreciated the importance of this site and have left their own messages on the stone walls with paint and scratchings.

It is still raining, and we decide to cancel our visit to another prehistoric area, and head towards Orog Nuur (lake). After 60Kms, some on tracks and some not, we approach the Salt Lake but the low country becomes increasingly impassable with the wet weather. We really do not wish to be bogged in the middle of Mongolia, in a salty flood plain without a tree in sight. We retreat to higher ground, and call the lake quits.

Heading towards the town of Bayankhonor, tomorrows destination, we sight on our left a black rock ridgeline and decide to drive up this for our camp. At the top we are rewarded with a spectacular view across the black stony plain and to the right a predominant red and white vertical escarpment.


Our 50th Camp: Black Rock Ridge Camp

Current Position: 100Kms South of Bayankhongor (Central Mongolia)
Highlights: Food shopping in Dalanzadgad, Luxury overnight stay at 3 Camels Ger Camp, Dinosaur treasures, GPS across the Gobi, Crystal Cave.

Total Distance to Date: 12,195 Kms

Mongolia 1 - South towards the Gobi Desert

Saturday 11th August: Off to the Ulaanbaatar markets. 60,000 people visit these markets each day and they are as diverse as they are dynamic. You can buy anything from a gur tent and all the appropriate furniture, to chain saws, butter wrapped sheep intestines (as a container), antiques, ropes, and solar panels. We found everything very cheap. A $700 solar panel in Australia was $200, ‘cargo’ type shirts were $15, and my prized purchase was a very old Mongolian Khan Warrior helmet for US100.

After visiting the local and largest Monastery we left Ulaanbaatar and headed south.

This is a land of no roads only directions.

We soon found this out as we headed out of town. 20kms from town we were on multiple dirt tracks, no signposts, and heading by GPS south towards Mandalgov. There were so many tracks in every direction that eventually Bill and I became separated and could not find each other for over an hour. Having lost his UHF ariel very early in the trip, communication was impossible between the valleys. We finally relocated each other by good luck, not planning, and were so relieved that we camped where we were. Besides it was 8pm and we were on the side of a broad 10km wide valley, with the horizon surrounding us.

Following setting up camp we were met by a local and his son in their new 100 series Landcruiser. They had been falcon hunting and returning home and just stopped in to check if we were OK. They soon left but not before leaving us some biscuits, just as other visitor did this morning in camp. Very friendly people.
That evening the sky put on a specular light and storm cloud show as we retired.

Camp 44: Lost and Found - Storm Camp


Sunday 12th August: Fortunately there was no rain in the clouds last night, on these black soil plains that would put a end to all travel. There are still no trees or low plants, only open rolling hills and plains covered with an ever diminishing cover of green grass.

We drove by GPS to try to locate the Mineral Springs in the foot hills of Baga Gazaryn Uul but gave up. Finally following the maize of tracks, but mostly GPS we arrived 410kms later at Mandalgov. A not so impressive town, in this heat of about 30degrees we shouted ourselves a well deserved ice-cream. Now camped on top of a rounded hill 15kms south of town we again have a 360 degree view of the flat horizon. No trees or shrubs only grasses, rocks and sand. This is preparing us for the Gobi Desert beyond.


Monday 13th August: I was up early this morning trying to fix the computer. Every page is split into 4 horizontal pages, and I imagine this was due to the constant vibrations from the roads. I have found a way to use word for this log, but it is a problem for pictorial storage and I am still working on that one.

The view as we drive through the country is so big and expansive it is impossible to capture it on film. Not even a panoramic shot can capture the vastness of the sweeping valleys, the green rolling hills, or the green horizon in every direction. Our morning tea stop was on top of a hill to soak in the view.
Along the way there are plenty of grazing animals. Camels, goats, sheep, and horses all attended by the younger members of the nomadic family. They are either on horse or camel, or walking beside the stock moving them constantly on and generally watching over them.

We veered from our GPS south track to take in the Painted Desert Mountains. It was only 30Kms off our track, and well worth it. The clay/sandstone mountain was slowly eroding leaving unusual shapes in red, orange, pink, white and mauve. It is hot, 37degrees is registered on our thermometer in the camper.


Following the GPS and the occasional track we arrive 15Kms outside the town of Dalanzadgad and set camp. Again we are surrounded by a green horizon with the occasional blue hills dotting the horizon.

Camp: 46 Dalanzadgad Plains Camp

Position: (Gobi Desert) – 500Kms South of Ulaanbaatar
Highlights: Land of no roads only directions; Open country, cross country driving, Painted Desert Mountains.
Total Distance to Date: 11,665Kms.

Ulan-Ude to Ulaanbaatar (Mongolia)

Tuesday 7th August 2007: From information we obtained at the Mongolian Consulate in Ulan-Ude the consulate does not issue visas on a Tuesday, hence we had to fill in a day. We wandered around the shops, Gay and Lyn managed to buy new sandals to replace the ones that were stolen at Lake Baikal.
The buildings are a mixture of original old log type and very modern concrete and steel. The large mall, without traffic was pleasant to walk and people watch. It would seem that this is also what the locals do, as the mall was full of young and old. The young drank beer from the brown bottles and smoked, the old drank coffee and smoked. Both watched the passing parade as we did.
That evening we camped next to the Selenga River outside the town and had a great position overlooking the river and the passing Trans Siberian Trains on the other side.

7th August Distance: 35Kms Camp 40: Ulan-Ude Big River Camp with Trains

Friday 8th August: At 9am the next morning we were smartly at the consulate only to be told that we must apply only at a travel agency. The very well spoken gentleman at the consulate recommended one and just across the road everything was put in place for the visas to be ready at 6pm.(1700RUB A$68each) Visited coffee shops, and internet cafes to kill time. There was an Ethnographic Museum about 8km out of town and this is a reconstruction of all the old building styles from the tepees used by the originals, to the log houses. Attached was also a not so well presented zoo.

Back to town we went 3 times in early anticipation to the agency for our visas before we were on our way towards the Mongolian border at 6.30pm. It was a 300 km drive; with the idea of camping at the border gate ready for a first in line start.

Arriving at a very late 11.30 we were tired and just a bit on edge. In the end we could not find the actual border gate road in the maze of streets in and around the small border town. In frustration we camped in the forest just out of town to start tomorrow with a clear mind and some daylight.

8th August Distance: 222Kms Camp 41: Mongolian Forrest Border Camp


Saturday 9th August: From where we stopped and gave up last night the border gate was only 2Kms further on, we just had to follow the road and spend a few moments translating the sign that said ‘Customs’ in Cyrillic.

There were already 20 or so vehicles in the haphazard line up, but we concluded that it would have made no difference arriving at such a late hour last night anyway. The gates opened at 9am, and we were surprisingly asked to change lanes because they classed us as a ‘truck.’ This upset the two Italians who in there usual manner complained to no avail. To somehow make up for last night we were the second vehicle through the gate.

The whole border crossing process took 2 hours, and although we could not see a defied path past the various windows and desks on both sides we managed.
Both the exit from Russia and the entry into Mongolia the staff were helpful and understanding in our lack of speech in the local languages. The costs amounted to US$4 for ‘spraying’ of the tyres, quarantine I guess, and 700RBL (A$30) for third party Mongolian vehicle insurance.

At 11.30 we were in Mongolia and immediately visited the local roadside stall for some coffee and Mongolian goulash. Very nice and very inexpensive at A$7.00 for all 4 of us.

From information sourced from the Lonely Planet book I had found an authentic, and only one of three, manufacturers of Mongolian hunting bows in the small village of Dulaankhaan. We located the family who proudly showed how it was made from Ibex and Reindeer horn, sinew from sheep leg, and a local tree sap as glue. I had previously decided that this would be our souvenir of Mongolia. For US$200, considering that they take 3 weeks to make, I felt the price reasonable.

The country, as we drove though towards the capital of Ulaanbaatar was uniquely different and spectacular in its starkness. Green rolling hills and mountains, mostly devoid of any trees, were unique also because in Mongolia there are no fences. The cattle, long haired sheep and goats, occasionally yaks, graze everywhere, tended by the expert owners on their horses. Very friendly and most wave as we drive by.

Our arrival in Ulaanbaatar was a contrast. The drivers aggressive on the road, no road signs, and no street signs. One million people live here, half the population of Mongolia. I think all of them were on the road going to and from somewhere.

Lonely Planet had recommended a valley towards Khandgait as a great camping place, and that was our destination. Unfortunately the urban sprawl had moved up the valley and we drove for over one hour from the city centre before we finally left the houses and found some green country side to camp.
The local farmer dropped in to camp on the way home from cutting clover for his sheep. We enjoyed chatting by sign language. Soon after another couple of guys arrived and tried to scam some money. They posed as park rangers and said we were not allowed to camp here nor have an open fire and we would be fined. We have become a little more travel savvy now and I asked to see their ID. That was not forthcoming, however on mentioning that if they have a problem with us here they should first clear it with the local farmer in the house “Over There” and pointed to where the farmer had just returned. At that stage they gave up, but still kept up a very good show.

Ulaanbaatar is a thriving and dynamic city. There is money being made here, perhaps not by all but it is being spread around. A couple of Hummers and a 2 door Bentley confirm that. Construction is happening in both the city in high rise, and in the suburbs where new modern housing is going ahead at a great pace. The suburban houses, although small on our standards, are brightly coloured with their red, blue or green roofs and either light stained pine timber or red brick sides. Surprisingly unlike the country side, each house has timber fenced off their domain. The toilets are in the far back corner of the fenced area or alternatively they share the toilets along the road side. Sometimes we see two squatting areas side by side in the same small building – how very communal!

9th August Distance: 380Kms Camp 42: Green Acres Camp- Urban Ulaanbaatar


Sunday 10th August: This morning we are back to town, doing the tourist thing.

The Natural History Museum has to be a highlight with the best displays I have ever seen of Dinosaurs of all shapes and sizes, Dinosaur eggs, and meteorites. Mongolia, too, was subjected to Stalin’s reign of terror. The Victims of Political Persecution Museum depicts the purges of the 1930’s, and the loss of thousands of Monks, writers, poets and thinkers.

We museumed our selves out, had lunch at Millies. Really a feast at an upmarket restaurant, 2 courses, drinks, etc all for A$36.

The day ended with a local dance and song show in the park and dinner at the Silk Road Restaurant. It was then time for more fighting of the suburban traffic to camp in a different valley at the edge of the green belt surrounding the city.

10th August Distance: 45Kms Camp 43: Suburbs Camp

Position: Ulaanbaatar – Capital of Mongolia.
Highlights:
Border crossing Russia/Mongolia,
Authentic Mongolian Hunting Bow.
Ulaanbaatar, The Country.
Land of no roads only directions.

Total Distance to Date: 11,954 Kms

Chita to Lake Baikal via logging tracks - Ulan Ude

Wednesday 1st August 2007: Chita, with a population of 370,000 is a diverse city with varying architecture. A mix of old log buildings, now typical Russian concrete apartment buildings and some modern newer style living accommodation, that would do proud in any city. Surrounding the always statue of Lenin, in Lenin square were some very impressive government buildings with equally impressive roman style columns. We walked the city centre in the 33 degrees heat and restocked the pantry.

Importantly Bill managed to replace his hydraulic hose for the winch. That was quite an experience for him. After many auto shops, and work shops in previous towns, Bill was determined, that Chita had to be the place to locate it before the more difficult Mongolia. Finally, a small engine workshop owner volunteered to take Bill and find such a hose. At 100 to 120Kph he drove Bill in his V8 Mazda across and around Chita. Bill had his hose, but was shattered at the driving style. That evening it took many Vodkas and coffees to bring him back to reality after crossing intersections at these speeds, passing cars on the crest of hills etc. He was clearly shaken by this experience.

Whilst Bill, was enjoying himself in the ‘race car’, we chatted to some of the locals around the auto shops. One was a truck driver who does the China to Saint Petersburg run. He had been to Lake Baikal, and particularly to the isolated place we wanted to visit and suggested a 250Km short-cut across the mountains. Via some English speaking locals we had a rough map of the tracks. He assured us, that despite the fact it was neither on the Garmin world map, nor on our more up to date and reliable ‘Roads to Russia” CD map, nor any of the Russian paper road maps; I had to wonder how it could still be described as a “gravel road.”

With that plan in hand we headed north out of town towards Romanavska and camped beside a stream and had enjoyed some fresh raspberries purchased from an old lady in the roadside markets.

1st August Distance: 200Kms Camp 34: Raspberries & Cream beside the River


Thursday 2nd August: We were away at our now usual 9am departure, and after Romanavska headed west towards Khorynsk where we take the short cut to Lake Baikal. This area must be the bread basket of Russia. Large rolling plains covered with wheat fields, and cattle. The only difference to what we see at home is the short stalks on the wheat, and the very antiquated machinery being used. I would seem that despite Perestroika that the farms may still be run under a collective arrangement and share equipment and labour forces.

On the side of the road in one small village they were selling Blueberries. The second young couple waved us down as they stood proudly beside their two metal buckets of Blueberries. The young lady of about 25 wanted 250RUB (A$12.00) for the 4 gallon bucket. We explained in sign language, and by blowing up our mouth, that we would explode if we eat all 4 gallons of Blueberries, and only wanted a small quantity. She laughed but really wanted us to take the full bucket, and dropped the price to 200RUB. We finally finished up with about 3 or more kilos, about half the bucket, for 100RUB (A$5.00).

We passed through the small village of Isinga, where at the edge of town, a track lead up to the top of a domed grassy hill. From the top was a view across the town and the meadows, and the large tranquil lake the town was nestled against. In this prime position was a very small white pagoda, with its accompanying colourful alter and 10 or so congregation benches.

Sitting on the grass, looking out across the mirror finished lake you could see three isolated fishermen in their small boats catching their supper. There was no wind and no sound, despite the close proximity to the village. I could hear the cows eat; the fishermen throw their line in some 400 metres away, and nothing else.

Truly this was the Donnyboon of Russia. You could feel the serenity.

We all had to force ourselves back onto the road. At Khokhotuy we confirmed again with some guys working on a truck, the directions across the mountains. With a few more map scribbles in Lyn’s log book we headed back 10K’s to the turn off to the village of Mayla. The road was within 500 metres already a grass centred track as it crossed the one metre deep creek into log village. It was time for more reassurance, so we asked a Kamaz Log truck driver waiting on the road. A few more map directions in Lyn’s book, and then he offered to lead us part of the way. At a very painful 15KPH, we followed the truck about 10kms to our turn off. In Russian, I think he may have said “Good Luck”

We were defiantly on logging tracks, and as we came across logging camps we would ask directions again and again. Each time more notes, however the more information we had the more it differed a little from the last.


Two Australian trucks and 4 Aussie tourists this far away from civilization was always a surprise to the timber getters. Amongst them there was wild chatter and as we left you could see them shaking and scratching their heads. At 7.30pm we stopped on a disused side track and camped.
That evening we enjoyed Blueberries and cream topped with condensed milk.

2nd August Distance: 435Kms Camp 35: Blueberry Camp on side track.


Friday 3rd August: With breakfast over and Bill’s hydraulic winch hose back in place we headed off perhaps a little more confident than the previous day had ended. Up one steep hill a Kamaz truck driver carrying an old tank used for timber-getting had jack-knifed his vehicle and trailer. It was an impossible situation and he really needed some serious machinery to extricate him from the situation. Unfortunately we could do little to help, and following some friendly exchanges managed to edge our way past.

At midmorning we arrived at a house on top of a mountain range. This turned out to be the Zamakta Meteorological Station. We had wondered what “meteor” was in the instructions to date. After some instructions, and more “carta” (map) drawings, we were invited for coffee. Zamakta is made up of 3 log houses plus the log ‘station’ building. We met all the inhabitants – all of 5 men and 5 women.

Invited in for coffee, we took some biscuits and our cups into the dining/bed room. As we talked, the two wives (?) slowly loaded the table with Blueberries, cream, then bread, cucumber salad, bean salad, stuffed bread (very nice), and finally cooked macaroni with beef and cheese. What a feast!
Not coffee, but Russian Chai (Tea) was served, but before anything first a toast. Out came the home made whiskey made from potatoes (?) and local herbs. Hence at 10am, here we were with the two older ‘mums’, the daughter, brother, husbands and not sure how the others fitted in, but the entire community, toasting, Russia/Australia, Friends, Mothers etc etc.
It was a great cultural exchange, and truly an honour and a pleasure to be welcomed into their home and family. Vlad, presented us an old detailed map of the area and highlighted the position of the Zamakta Meteor Station. All the family signed this and our Russian Flag. I gave ‘Mike’ a signed picture of my competition vehicle as he also was a ‘rally’ driver. So friendly were they that as Lyn was patting the family kitten they offered it to her as a travelling companion. Lyn found it hard work refusing yet not offending.
As we were leaving the group then presented us with a parcel of food – 5 cans of bully beef and 5 cans of condensed milk….and what remained of that precious home made whiskey, for our travels. It was now early afternoon when Vlad then sat in our vehicle and guided us to the first turn off about 5 kilometres away. I imagine he then walked back.

To date this is our most memorable experience of Russian life, friendship and hospitality.

Up and down hills and mountains, through creeks, and constantly comparing all the hand drawn maps, GPS directions, and Roads to Russia maps we slowly make some distance. Until finally at 6.30pm we must have made a wrong turn as the track was slowly getting worse and closing in with vegetation. We backtracked to a logger’s camp for new directions. It is pouring with rain, the tracks are now slippery, and they offer to guide us out tomorrow morning. This we accept gratefully and park in the logger’s camp in the pouring rain.

3rd August Distance: 157Kms Camp 36: Loggers Camp in the Rain

Saturday 4th August: We talked to the loggers on and off throughout the day. We are a bit tired of just sitting but they assure us the vehicle is coming, the time just keeps changing because I think they do not know when. They work on a 7 days on 7 days off roster, and this is their change of shift.

There are 5 types of timber in the area; however they only cut 3 types of pine. Each tree is cut to 4 metre and very rarely 7 metre lengths. These must be perfectly round for the entire length. We see a huge amount of wasted timber. I would say they only use less than one third of the timber gets used. The rest they stack and burn or just leave. It seems very wasteful for lots of good timber. The workers explain they get very little money in comparison to what it is sold for in Japan and America. This is however so true for any raw material.

The foreman also showed us edible pine cones, the blueberries, and another type of berry. Interesting was the board leafed ground plant that could be used as a poultice.

Finally the boss’s Russian Jeep arrived and that together with the workers in the Uaz they lead us the 190Kms to Ust-Barguzin. Within 10Kms of leaving camp, we had found our navigational error; from there it was relatively a straight drive out over the rough roads.

Via some spectacular running creeks we finally reached the shores of Lake Baikal at 5.30pm. Following a quick drive around ‘town’ we drive the road north, crossed the river by punt, and turned left into the Svyatoy Nos Peninsula National Park.

Here we found a relatively quiet spot on the Baikal beach, between the tens of other Russian campers and set camp. The trucks were parked within 5 metres of the waters edge and our mosquito tent set between them. We sat down to enjoy dinner and taste yet again that home made whiskey from our friends at the Zamakta Meteorological Station. For dinner we pre-purchased fresh Omul fish from the punt and fried it over the open fire. Very nice washed down with a bottle of Red Chilean wine. We watched the sun set over this inland ‘ocean’. Recalling this inland lake contains over one fifth of the world’s fresh water, is 650Kms long, and up to 1650metre depth.

We retired to the lapping of the waves.

Suddenly we were awoken around 3am to the sound of our table collapsing. Unfortunately it was not the wind as first thought, but collapsing as someone was trying to steal it. They were also trying to take our mosquito tent. Lyn yelled out as I prepared to go outside. They were soon gone into the dunes and into the night. Fortunately we had packed most things away, but they still managed to get away with some washing, both Lyn’s and Gay’s shoes, and unfortunately half the camp table, making the rest useless.

We have had such pleasant experiences with the Russian people; I guess it was time to touch the other side also. It was a good warning to us to be careful in future.

4th August Distance: 223Kms Camp 37: Lake Baikal -Home Invasion Camp


Sunday 5th August: Most of today we sat on the beach, drank coffee, had a slow lunch and unwound from driving every day,…..and the experiences of the night before.

That afternoon, we drove the 20 or so kilometres to the main part of the peninsula which we have been told is most beautiful. But, I think we have been spoilt with some great scenery to date, and were left disappointed, returning to another part of the lakeside beach to camp.

We were looking forward to steak and eggs this night, having purchased a bulk lump of frozen steak in Chita at the supermarket. Opening the plastic bag of now unfrozen meat it was not steak but a very big dark lump of liver. Not that I am really against liver, but it was just such a big dark red lump, running with blood, it was just too much. Around the table sounds of “yuk” etc could be heard. Lyn was then just emerging from the camper when all this commotion started and immediately dropped the eggs she was carrying. That put an end to any thoughts of steak and eggs.

We laughed all this off as it was only our first translation mistake in our food shopping.

We settled for saveloys, onions and potatoes.

5th August Distance: 41Kms Camp 38: Lake Baikal – Mistake Liver Camp


Monday 6th August: Today we had planned to have our only swim in Lake Baikal this morning. The sky was blue and clear at 7am but by 8 the fog started to drift across the lake and down from the mountains. By 10am visibility was down to 20metres and the temperature dropped by 15 degrees from yesterday’s 30 degrees.

With jackets now on we spent a lazy start to the day watching the seagulls eat the remains of the liver from last night.

Finally realising that nothing was going to improve we may as well hit the road towards Mongolia, via Ulan-Ude.

Crossing the punt back to Ust-Barguzin, I recognise the two Australian vehicles waiting on the other side ready to cross. It is Herb, Jessie, John and Caris, who we had met outside Yakutsk 6 weeks previously. Very quickly we swap tails of adventure, and tails of woe, mostly vehicle related. We also find out that their Visas to Mongolia have expired, and since ours were issued at the same time, this will also mean that ours too would have expired. It sounds like in Ulan-Ude tomorrow we must visit the Mongolian Consulate and reapply.

Arriving on the outskirts of Ulan-Ude we enjoy a roadside stall dinner of shashlik, lamb and rice, salad and a couple of beers all for under A$20 for the 4 of us.

The two trucks are now camped in the ‘bush’ outside of town. The only place we could find to pull off the road was littered with scattered garbage. This was one downside of the country I failed to understand. The Russians are so proud of what they have achieved since perestroika, and rightly so, yet there are no rubbish facilities and everything is just left where ever.

Normally the four of us eat together, but this evening it was easier to eat in our respective campers, thus closing an eye to the outside mess.

6th August Distance: 307Kms Camp 39: Ulan-Ude Rubbish Dump Camp

Position: On the edge of Lake Baikal, then UlanUde.
Highlights: A bucket of Blueberries.
Russia’s Donnyboon.
A Forestry track to Lake Baikal.
Breakfast with a Meteorological Family.
Lost in Russia, then Lake Baikal.

Total Distance to Date: 11,110Kms (1363 in 6 days)

Yakutsk - Chita

Wednesday 25th July 2007 : During our day in Yakutsk, Bill and I achieved an oil change and tightened up the front wheel bearings on the trucks. Bill hydraulic hose seems unattainable; we are either asking the right questions to the wrong people or the wrong questions to the right people.

Whilst we were doing the general check over of the vehicles, Gay and Lyn did the hairdresser thing. In the afternoon, very kindly Seymon from the local 4x4 club organised for us a tour of the Permafrost institute and the Mammoth museum. The institute and its associated 12 meter tunnels study the problems with construction of buildings, roads and pipe lines on the constant -15 degrees frozen ground. Interestingly the permafrost in the Yakutsk area can extend up to a depth of 300 metres and in other parts of Siberia to an incredible 1500 metres. Sixty percent f Russia is covered with permafrost and Australia is the only continent where it does not exist.

Following restocking with food we again lined up at the 7.20pm vehicular ferry for the 90 minute crossing of the Lena River,(560RUB,A$22) in preparation for our journey south towards Lake Baikal. The road was atrocious so we made camp only about 70kms after leaving the ferry.
25th July Distance: 70Kms Camp 27: Start of Bad Road Camp


Thursday 26th July: Our morning pack up was interrupted by a Russia driver looking for fuel for his vehicle, although I am sure he was still very full, fuelled by too many Vodkas. We chattered with each other for a while, but really neither had a conversation. We then just wished each other good luck and goodbye.

The drive was as bad as could be expected. The recent rains had made a very bad road even worse. It took 4 ½ hours to do 100Kms. We called it the multiple choice road because you had many options around the large pot holes, each of the options as bad as any other. The sky was black and it rained on and off, the track slippery in places and our trucks were soon covered in mud. Our speed was between 12 and 25KPH. Previously we had been informed that the road was officially closed however our contact in Yakutsk had organised special permission from the Tourist Board. We had this very impressive signed document but I am sure the many other travellers did not have such permission!

Today from 8.30am to 6.30pm, with a couple of brief stops for lunch and coffee, we did a not so impressive 320Kms. Camping in a road base quarry we called ‘Dendrite Camp’ because of the number of rocks surrounding us with fern like dendritic inclusions.

26th July Distance: 320Kms Camp 28: Dendrite camp


Friday 27th July: We had found information from the BAM book, (The story of the Trans Siberian Railway) that the small town about 30kms off out path, had a Reindeer farm, and we thought we should seek it out. Finding the village nestled in the pine valley beside the river; it was a step back in time. This very ethnic town was tidy and lots of children ran everywhere, apparently the people like to have up to twelve children.

Our vehicles were very much out of place as we drove along the winding streets between the dark timbered log houses, each with the now familiar blue window frames. Finally we had to ask, and Lyn had great problem explaining to the non English speaking locals that we wanted to see reindeer. Sign language can be comical as Lyn firstly points to her eyes then holds her two hands fingers spread above her head. By this time we have quite a crowd gathered and a neighbour of the lady Lyn was talking to volunteered to lead us to a place he knew. Arriving at a house, it dawned to us that they think that we wanted to buy Reindeer antlers. This proved all too difficult, so we were then lead to a house where a young lady of about 20 spoke some English. Typical of the real openness of the people we were invited into their modest home, and following some very rough sketches of Reindeer we were told that only cows are farmed here now! In an attempt to satisfy our quest the young lady then gave us a photo of reindeers. Russia has such wonderful and friendly people. It became an interesting side journey.

This evening we camped off the road beside a small running creek. The setting idyllic between the pine trees and the ground covered with thick moss and lichen. We had just finished a couple of Vodkas and orange when the peaceful setting was shattered as three Russians in their music blaring car arrived to say hello. They lived in the local ‘village’ and had come to the creek for a swim.

Following the initial introductions, they went back to their car and returned with a bottle of Vodka or 3 and the traditional pieces of cucumber and tomato to eat after each straight shot. Both sides could only speak a dozen words of each others language and as we drank the language barrier disappeared. They joined us for dinner as we took Polaroid photos of the group, talked of the vehicles, family, and work. They signed our Russian flag, wrote on our respective T-shirts and then we exchanged them. It was a great evening. Finally, and surprisingly, we out drank the Russians and they retreated to town, two of them very under the weather. One of them called back to Lyn and said in broken English “I Love You”, and I insisted it was the vodka talking!

27th July Distance: 410Kms Camp 29: 3 Russian & Vodka Camp


Saturday 28th July: After last night we needed a hearty breakfast of Bacon and Eggs. Today we wanted to visit the worlds biggest coal mine at Neryungri, arriving there around midday. Fronting up at the mine gate to be told that being Saturday, visitors were not allowed. Not prepared to accept this I continued to smile and gesture that we had come all the way from Australia to see the mine. Just at that moment another worker arrived who could speak some English and offered to take us on a mine tour at 3pm. We eagerly accepted and filled in time in the Neryungri town, wandering around the shops and having shashlik and beer for lunch.
Neryungri is a 30 year old modern mine town with 8 story concrete apartment buildings and wide streets. What we find unusual is, as in all towns is that the shops do not stand out with sign boards and window displays. They are hidden behind concrete walls, sometimes in the basements of apartment buildings. Bill and I found a large camping store behind a thick timber door with only a fishing line advertisement on the adjacent wall. I can understand the lack of window displays etc with the sub-zero temperatures but I think a lesson in marketing would not go astray.

Returning to the mine at the appointed time, we had a great tour of the open cut mine in his vehicle. Everything is on a grand scale. The coal seam is 25metres thick and they have moved an entire mountain to gain access. The haul trucks used are the 240Tonne American Haulpaks, 200Tonne Komatsu and the 185Tonne Russian Delarus. Operating 24 hours a day 365 days a year, in winter at -30 degrees and summer at +30 degrees. We ended up in the machinery workshop of the big trucks and inspected the Haulpak 2,500 horsepower, 8 cylinder diesel engines under rebuild. Very impressed.

That evening we found a great camp site at the end of a track leading up to a radio transmitter. Camped on top of the world we have a commanding view in every direction for 60 to 80 kilometres. In the valleys you could see the gold mining operations scar the landscape, but as the valleys spread up to the rock covered mountains everything in between was covered with a dense green forest of pine and birch. We ate dinner as the colours of a beautiful sunset streaked the sky.

28th July Distance: 273Kms Camp 30: On Top of the World Camp


Sunday 29th July: Today was a driving day. We only managed 350Kms but it took all day. The roads were rocky and needed constant vigilance. One of my shock absorbers came loose and I required new washers, which were made up at a roadside workshop. The mechanic refused to accept any payment and just wished us good luck. Again I am stunned by the generosity of the Russians. Bill also had problems with his auxiliary fuel pump, which we finally managed to by-pass.

At the end of the day we reached the West-East road to Lake Baikal. This new super road is under construction and eventually will join Moscow with Vladivostok. Currently it is all gravel. After 9,000 kilometres, for us it means a new direction of travel as we turn east towards Baikal, Mongolia and Moscow.

Again we have been joined on this road by ‘Transporters’. They are still travelling the roads to all of Russia. There are hundreds, travelling in groups of 6 to 10 at a time. They make up 90% of the road traffic and you can hear them all night on the stony road.

29th July Distance: 334Kms Camp 31: Russian Super H’way Gravel Pit Camp


Monday 30th July: One could only say the ‘super highway’ is variable in condition. One section of 100Kms you are travelling on stony corrugated rock at a maximum of 60-70Kph, the next dodging pot holes at 12-25kph, and the next you could be the by-passing around and through construction sites. These are the worst yet most interesting. You wind through old towns, up and down river valleys, and the track speed is 10-20kph. Even at this ‘speed’ we cracked our other front shock absorber mount. In 10 hours of driving we achieved only 395kms and caused concerning damaged our trucks again. Russia is big!

30th July Distance: 395Kms Camp 32: Big Quarry H’way Camp


Tuesday 31th July: The road continued corrugated and rocky for 150Kms, and finally we reached the new black top. Driving was deadly quite. A very unusual experience that was not to last. Returning to stony corrugations we arrived in the town of Chernyshevsk, where we refuelled and managed to get the shock absorber mount welded and braced.

The country has dramatically changed. Gone are the Pine and Birch covered hills and mountain valleys, now we have rolling steppe country. Absent of any trees, but covered with a velvet mat of over-green grasses. The broken but very acceptable bitumen road winds up and down hills, in the river valleys are the farm villages. We are further south now, the winter is warmer, and we see herds of cattle.

Camping well off the road and down a creek, we were surprisingly visited by two young men arriving on their push bikes. They had come out fishing and proceeded to cut down a long branch and tie a fishing line and hook on the end. As one fished the other tried conversation with us, eventually when they left, they gave us the only three small fish they had caught.

31st July Distance: 435Kms Camp 33: Field Before Chita Camp

Position: 100Kms East of Chita
Highlights: Yakutsk – Museums & the Permafrost Institute
Bad roads again.
Russian camp visitors.
Worlds biggest coal mine, then more bad roads

Total Distance to Date: 9,747Kms (2237 in 7 days)