Tuesday 20th March 2008: Last night it was a cold minus 3 degrees, and we woke to snow on the vehicle.
The cloud cover lifted to reveal snow covered peaks surrounding us. We are actually above the clouds in clear air. Walking up the road further we are surrounded by locals all very keen to hire us ski equipment. We are quite happy to walk further up the road and enjoy the mountains.
Returning back past the ski lift, the highest in Africa, it is now working, and foolishly Lyn suggests may be we should go to the top. Well it was a dozen or more yes/no’s before she confirmed a yes. We were already at 2,650metres and the top is at 3250metres. It was half way up before she managed to open her eyes and ‘enjoy’ the impressive surroundings. It was very cold, and we were pleased we were in our NZ heavy jackets, gloves and beanies. I could not persuade Lyn to alight at the top, but was happy to have done the loop, being above the clouds with the backdrop of snow peaks and blue sky was great.
Marrakech is one busy and diverse city. Modern hotels and new condominiums contrasted with donkey carts in the streets. We had been given the location of a campground and after settling in caught a taxi to the centre of town in readiness for the night markets. Crowded shoulder to shoulder, apparently it was Mohammed’s birthday so that added to the excitement. Story tellers, snake charmers, group games, dancers, all intermingled with nut sellers, food stands, fortune tellers, and balloon sellers. The crowd was made up of a cross section of locals and foreigners from every continent. It was a bit much for us ‘open country lovers’ being hassled from every direction to buy, to donate, to give to participate etc. We escaped to an upstairs restaurant for dinner, and thought a beer would be nice with dinner, that was not to be. Being a Muslim country most places do not sell alcohol some do, this one belonged to the negative.
Returning to the camp site by the same taxi guy, we arranged with him a city tour tomorrow for 40Dh each, it will save driving the truck around the small unknown streets.
Camp 15: Marrakech Camp. Distance travelled: 91Kms. Total: 5887Kms.
Tuesday 21st March: The taxi was picking us up at 10am so had some time to grease the truck and some general maintenance. Also noticed a MAN 4x4 camper in the grounds so went over and had a chat to the Spanish guy who builds them. Impressive rig but very big. 4 rooms, 500litres water, 600Lts fuel, all up weight 9.5tonne. He has just returned from Mali and was telling me he had to winch down trees on the tracks to get through!
The taxi bus took us and others to the grand palace (20 years to build, 15 years to rape of its treasurers), the Tombs of Soodiam, and some beautiful gardens built by a French artist.
Returning to the campground, I was annoyed that the taxi driver ripped us off with the price. He insisted he was quoting Euro not Dirham. Anyway the price dropped from 450Dh to a final 300Dh, but I was still felt taken. I have learnt that the Moroccans offer a hand of friendship with the right hand and the other is already out asking for money!
We elected to stay the extra night and relax for the afternoon.
Camp 16: Marrakech Camp No2. Distance travelled: 0Kms. Total: 5887Kms.
Tuesday 22nd March: With our taxi driver situation yesterday, we had just enough money to pay for the camping and left for the supermarket with 6Dh in our pocket, about A$0.90. Fortunately ATM’s are plentiful so we feel fulfilled and with some resupply we are off to the Cascades D’Ouzoud.
Detouring to just outside Demnate we stopped to walk down to a natural bridge, then drove another 8Kms to inspect some Dinosaur footprints. As we pull up to the site about 30 children run to the truck wanting to guide us to the very obvious footprints. It was such a hassle continually telling them we do not need their help that it made it very unpleasant. Taking one quick photograph we left. Truly the young have been spoilt by the French and Spanish by paying them for everything. You ask directions, and immediately they want 5Dh, often on dirt roads they stand in front of the truck picking stones off the road and then ask for money, girls in the street pick flowers and offer them to you, then ask for money. It not money it is bom boms (lollies), stylos (biros) or cigarettes.
Camped at the falls, it was my turn to haggle for the camp fees, down from 50Dh to 30Dh. I feel better now that I have had a small win!
The falls are beautiful and worth the trip down and up the 500 or so steps. They fall over 110metres in three steps. At the bottom the small steel bridge linking the two sides of the stream has broken, and the inventive locals have strapped some 44gallon drums together, added a platform, and chairs with lots of plastic flowers and instant money machine.
All down the walking path are stalls and restaurants selling tajins, tea, coffee and crapes. This place is very popular with Moroccans and well as tourists.
Camp 17: Falls Camp. Distance travelled: 235Kms. Total: 6123Kms.
Tuesday 23rd March: Today we head towards the coast of the Atlantic Ocean at Safi. Following the gorge road down the mountains the scenery reminds us of Australia; red rock strata sediments in green eucalyptus trees everywhere. I find it surprising how many eucalyptus and wattle trees are scattered across Morocco. The eucalyptus do get a hard time, constantly being cut for their wood, then resprouting.
In Safi, the old Portuguese fort of Qasr Al-Bahr dates back to the 17th century and was a trading port for both the east Indies spices and the slaves of Africa bound for Portugal. Still in place are some of the original cannons. The ‘Castle of the Sea’ overlooks the small fishing port famous for its sardine fleet and the walled medina (living area).
Finding the camping grounds we walked the 5Kms back into town and had a meal of local fish; probably on of our best meals in Morocco. Too heavy to walk back up the hill it was a cheap 20Dh in the local ‘petit taxi’.
Camp 18: Safi Camp. Distance travelled: 305Kms. Total: 6429Kms.
Tuesday 24th March: Heading north from Safi we follow the Atlantic coast and call in at a beach where the waves are so perfect it is the site for the Billabong Surf classic.
The rugged limestone cliffed coast is broken by sandy beaches that are becoming populated with continuous lines of condos. At the town of El-Jadida we explore the twisted and narrow streets of the old Portuguese walled city. On the ramparts of the fortress walls that guard the city and the port are more canons that have the date 1272 on stamped on them.
Heading further north we jumped on the motorway, bypassed the 4.7million people of Casablanca, and headed for Rabat and its sister city across the river of Sale. Eventually we found the camp site in Sale. Most of these Moroccan camp sites are pretty disgusting; this one typical, no hot water in the showers, some showers without doors, and the toilets, well there is only one and hold your breath!
We caught a ‘grand taxi’ back to Rabat and wandered the markets within the Medina. We found our way to the oldest part of the city. Again, we were approached by a young man who insisted on showing us around. Constantly I said to him, “I do not want a guide” His reply: “No, free, I friend and live here, will show you around.” I know this is not the case.
Eventually we walk another way; he follows us and asked for 40Dh. My reply was a firm “No”, which bought the response “…something…Rubbish.” It does not leave me with a good impression of Morocco people and their attitude to tourists.
We were going to have dinner locally, but returned to the camper and cooked some spicy sausages.
Camp 19: Sale Camp. Distance travelled: 352Kms. Total: 6881Kms.
Tuesday 25th March: Following the coast this morning instead of the highway afforded us great views of the rugged coastline. We are heading to the National park Merdja Zerga to see the flamingos if they are there and to lunch at the seaside. Lyn’s navigation got us there but on the wrong side of the lake, but that is Ok because probably we were not hungry at 2pm. Anyway there were no flamingos, but our seafood lunch was very nice. Not a touch on our Ozzie seafood but after 3 weeks of tajines it was most welcome.
From the restaurant we could see the blue rolling surf of the Atlantic Ocean as it washed up on the wide sandy beach; with the gum trees lining the road in it was reminiscent of home.
It was getting late in the day so decided to jump on the highway to Tangier. Lyn has a real problem with maps and we were only lost for an hour in the gnarly traffic of that town. Then all of a sudden, when we least expected it there was the camping sign. We doubted ourselves because the direction lead us across some very muddy ground, then up hairpin bends on very disused concrete, then only to arrive at a locked gate. Yes, it had the correct name of the campground, but little room to turn around. Lyn’s navigation day was saved as all of a sudden the gates opened and we were ushered in. We had found the disused back door to the camp ground.
The caretaker welcomed us, and in our discussions suggested that perhaps we should leave by the same way so we would not get lost finding the front gate. Did he know something I did not!
Camp 19: Tangier Back Door Camp.
Distance travelled: 314Kms. Total: 7095Kms.
Tuesday 26th March: With an early start of 7am we were off the Ceuta and our ferry crossing back to Spain. Arriving at the customs border of the Spanish province at 9am , it was a good two hours doing the necessary paperwork out of Morocco and in to Ceuta. Actually only about 15 minutes of paperwork the rest of the time was inching forward in the vehicle, and resisting running over others who tried to push in.
The vehicle carrying catamaran carries 945 passengers and a significant number of vehicles. As I was about to drive off the ferry after the one hour trip I noticed with some pride that this vessel was built in Western Australia.
The afternoon covered a good distance past all those Spanish condominiums again, and camped at ‘Capode Gata’ National Park camp grounds. Expensive at €25 (A$40) after Morocco, but the showers are clean, hot and the water lasts forever.
Camp 20: Long Hot Showers Camp.
Distance travelled: 460Kms. Total: 7555Kms.
